seized rear hub

I

Ingram 33vicky

Senior Member
Need to pull rear brake drum from the axle. I have put maximum torque with a genuine Ford rear axle puller, have also tried heat and puller, air impact gun with genuine puller.
My next trial will be a air driven carbide cutter to cut a relief on the hub. Any advice appreciated.
 
Charlie asks a great question. You want to use the puller that grabs the snout of the hub,not the studs on the drum.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7191small.jpg
    IMG_7191small.jpg
    49.5 KB · Views: 70
  • IMG_7193RRsmall.jpg
    IMG_7193RRsmall.jpg
    53.7 KB · Views: 85
Ingram 33vicky said:
I call the puller that grips the snout "genuine" as it is designed especially for Ford hubs.
Click to expand...
The one shown in Post #3 was what I hoped you were using but it was made by the KR Wilson company that supplied tools to Ford, not Ford. I was concerned that you were using something else that was marked for use on Ford hubs and was of heaven only knows what configuration. You might try leaving it on tightened overnight.

Charlie Stephens
 
After applying that maximum torque you mention, hit the end of the bolt with a BFH. It'll come off!
 
or less damaging,heat the hub next to the keyway when the puller has the max load on it,
that will expand the hub,and free it up
Lawrie
 
Try applying max torque, back off, apply again, and repeat a few times. Plus a good hit with a heavy hammer. Also could try leaving it for a while at max torque.

Have, to ask, though, what is "max torque" for a puller?

Mart.
 
I have always found heat to work. I just pulled a pinion gear off a model A driveshaft and when heated it popped of and went flying across the shop.

John
 
If the vehicle is still operational, you could try this trick. Put the axle nut back on, but leave it a turn or two loose. Go out and drive in a few "figure-eights" in the parking lot and see what happens. Quite often, this will break them loose.
 
OK have the generic puller that pulls on the inner ring of the hub. next best thing to a genie KRWislon puller.
Pull with puller -- did not work
Pull with puller and rap on center of puller --did not work
Pull with puller heat and rap on center of puller -- did not work
Pull with puller, heat, rap on center with bigger hammer BFH !!!
Any good ideas welcome before I get my 4" carbide cutter and cut the SOB off as I try to save the axle.
Last option will be to pull rear axle and get after it with the cutting torch.
If you have any other ideas call me at 541-990-7377. Deadline is to make it to the big meet in June.
Thanks, Paul
 
You could have a safety hub inside the drum keeping it from coming off. I've gotten some very tight drum/hubs to come off tapered axles w/o having to cut anything. I'm also wondering what you are calling "max torque". I've occasionally used a length of pipe to extend a strong bar/cheater bar to get more torque. When it finally popped, it sounded like a 9mm gun fired near my head.
 
JM 35 Sedan said:
You could have a safety hub inside the drum keeping it from coming off. I've gotten some very tight drum/hubs to come off tapered axles w/o having to cut anything. I'm also wondering what you are calling "max torque". I've occasionally used a length of pipe to extend a strong bar/cheater bar to get more torque. When it finally popped, it sounded like a 9mm gun fired near my head.
Click to expand...
If the hub is loose on the axle just not coming the rest of the way off then you probably have safety hubs. You can check for safety hubs by looking at the four fasteners that hold the backing plate to the axle housing. If two are bolt heads and two are studs with nuts then you probably have safety hubs.

Charlie Stephens
 
After trying all methods suggested and tried It finally gave it up and came off. Only after using my die grinder and six 3" discs and cutting all but the axle away from the threaded end of the axle to the area where the tapered ended. I think I found the reason for hanging up. The key that is in the keyway slot was in backwards (the square end was inboard). Only an 82 year old dufus could do something this simple. Now will break down the Columbia, install a new axel, drum, and get ready for Dearborn.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top