Seeking advice on '28 A engine

jrd-28

Member
I've pretty much disassembled my '28 engine. Parts of it look pretty good, but there are some problems.

It has .100 over pistons in it. The rings are badly worn; the oil ring ridges are completely gone. The bores are tapered, 3.973 at the bottom, but as much as 3.992 at the top, and most of them are 2 or 3 out of round. In addition, some of the walls have ridges at the bottom of the travel, about where the oil ring would stop.

I'm thinking it's time for sleeves. I spoke to J&M Machine, and they seem to get it, and offered me an estimate of a fair price.

In addition, the babbit in rear main bearing cap is cracked; a piece fell out in my fingers. That needs to be replaced, which may mean that they all need to be done.

Good news: The cam is in decent shape, the main and journal bearings look good, no part numbers in the oil, etc.

Pix at http://www.jrd.org/nate/02-27-16/ and previous weeks. Thoughts, recommendations, and advice welcome.
 
Restoring a Taylorcraft as well?

Gar Williams

:) Yes. We often have a couple of projects going on in the shop. Glen has a '41 BL12 in progress. If you look back in the photo history you'll see the '38 BC65 we did up through last year.

Thanks Mike!

Colin; yeah, I know, and I considered .125 over. Seeing the amount and unevenness of the wear, I'm concerned that if I go to 125 and it again wears funny, I could be past the point where it could be sleeved. They're not making any more of them. This way in another 88 years, somebody may be thanking me for keeping another block usable.

Next job: Pull out the studs, clean the oil and grease off the block, mask, and sandblast.
 
I've pretty much disassembled my '28 engine. Parts of it look pretty good, but there are some problems.

It has .100 over pistons in it. The rings are badly worn; the oil ring ridges are completely gone. The bores are tapered, 3.973 at the bottom, but as much as 3.992 at the top, and most of them are 2 or 3 out of round. In addition, some of the walls have ridges at the bottom of the travel, about where the oil ring would stop.

I'm thinking it's time for sleeves. I spoke to J&M Machine, and they seem to get it, and offered me an estimate of a fair price.

In addition, the babbit in rear main bearing cap is cracked; a piece fell out in my fingers. That needs to be replaced, which may mean that they all need to be done.

Good news: The cam is in decent shape, the main and journal bearings look good, no part numbers in the oil, etc.

Pix at http://www.jrd.org/nate/02-27-16/ and previous weeks. Thoughts, recommendations, and advice welcome.

I don't have a clue what this means?:confused:

How are the cam teeth that drive the oil pump and distributor?

I like your idea to sleeve back to original.
Also, you wouldn't have to worry about possible deep rust pits around the cylinders.
 
I would bore it to .125" over std. You are not going to be able to put enough miles on it to wear it out, ever! Sleeves are good but add costs to the rebuild and have a very slim chance of failure. If they are not in there, they will never cause a problem! If something should happen, the machinist needs to bore the block another .060" to install them, so you have no worries rather way.
 
I don't have a clue what this means?:confused:
No metal in the oil. No pieces of anything in the oil big enough to have part numbers on them.


Looks like his cam gear teeth are worn to hell.
Sigh. It didn't look all that bad to me when I pulled it out, but you guys know more than I do.

Is that scuffing something which could be polished out? Presumably I'd need to do it on the other helical gear too. Or should I be looking for a replacement camshaft?
I would bore it to .125" over std.
Well, like I said, I thought of that, but figured with the kind of wear that I have, if it did that again, I (or whoever has the car after me) would be SOL for saving the block. Sounds like you think that doesn't make sense, even if it wore badly from .125 there's still enough there to sleeve it.


Thanks everyone! I really do appreciate the advice!
 
I would not use sleeves until I had to. I would also bore it to .125 over, there will be plenty of metal left for sleeves.I bored one engine to .155 over. It ran very well.
 
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