Securing head studs in the block
- Thread starter russcc
- Start date
The issue I have is that the original head studs are not long enough, so I can't tighten them up to the shoulder. The original, short 59AB stud, 40-6065 is "2.340 OAL, it is not long enough for the combined height of the head at "1.250, the nut ".425, the washer ".080, the gasket ".060 for a total of "1.780. "2.340, less "1.780 leaves .560, or a little over 1/2" of the 7/16-14 USS threads to go into the block. The actual
7/16-14 USS threaded section of the stud that goes in the block is ".690, leaving ".130 of thread above the deck of the block. That is why I assumed I needed to not only seal the thread, but to secure it form moving.
7/16-14 USS threaded section of the stud that goes in the block is ".690, leaving ".130 of thread above the deck of the block. That is why I assumed I needed to not only seal the thread, but to secure it form moving.
GOSFAST
Well-known member
For anyone wanting to use "Loctite" on a stud on ANY application (Ford, Chevy, Mopar, etc.) you need to Torque the stud up untill the "Loctite" setups up. Then go back and finish the job.
This is the general "rule-of-thumb" so to speak.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. For either studs or bolts we use Permatex #1C, on occasion we will use G.M.'s pipe sealant, both pictured here below!
This is the general "rule-of-thumb" so to speak.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. For either studs or bolts we use Permatex #1C, on occasion we will use G.M.'s pipe sealant, both pictured here below!
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Thank you all for your ideas. I am not stuck on Locktite. For example, the red stud & bearing mount can be removed with heat, about 300 degrees, so removing then is not an issue, but it might not make sense for a the block deck next to the cylinder. I can't find a 18-6067 in my green bible. "2.470 would be great as that is another .130., for total of .690. There is an 18-6066 which is '2.78. We must have different bibles. I am using Barney Navarro's 59 AB type heads, which measure "1.250, "1'650 & "1.850 for the 3 different studs locations. I was concerned with the shortest one, the "1.250.
Mike in AZ
Well-known member
Maybe see what H&H Flatheads recommends??...as they repop the heads??...good luck....Mike
Brian
Well-known member
We do have different bibles but are following the same religion. The part no's I gave you are actual Ford numbers and descriptions out of the Canadian Ford Fast Moving parts Catalogue. Further to that it states the applications; 18-6067 quantity req'd 22, Pass and Trucks-8 cyl 1932-1936. Those pump in head engines had different length studs.
Even though you can't find them in your green book, I am sure you could source them. Maybe Roy Nacewicz?
Even though you can't find them in your green book, I am sure you could source them. Maybe Roy Nacewicz?
The Locktite 271 red is both a sealant and thread locker which requires 500 degrees of heat to loosen once the anaerobic process cures it.
Would the block temperatures near the cylinder where the studs are reach 500 degrees normally ? If not, that product is the best solution to both lock the stud in place and seal it. You just need the blue wrench to loosen it. No big deal.
Would the block temperatures near the cylinder where the studs are reach 500 degrees normally ? If not, that product is the best solution to both lock the stud in place and seal it. You just need the blue wrench to loosen it. No big deal.
If I understand the Locktite tech data, the 515 loses it's strength as the temperature rises. At 120c or 248f, it degraded substantially. It still looks like Locktite red, 271 is the best bet, as it seems to have the highest heat strength because to loosen it you need 500 degree F. I am not looking as much for a sealant, as high temp thread locker. Thank you