Secret Tips

If it's running well leave it alone and don't screw it up by twiddling with the points or carburetor until it doesn't run at all. About the only thing I do is check the gas sediment bowl for dirt and clean it if necessary.
 
When tightening or loosening a rear axle nut, take a 2 or 3 foot piece of flat or angle iron, drill a 1/2" hole near one end, put it on one of the wheel studs, brace it against the next one w/the other end on the ground.
I use the same practice when working on open driveshaft vehicles when R&Ring the pinion nut.
 

Attachments

  • Brace 2.jpg
    Brace 2.jpg
    112.9 KB · Views: 34
Last edited:
Here's a pic of my "tool trolley". It's a flat wooden box about 12" x 12", I picked it up about 30 year ago, put 4 casters on it. I use it when working at floor level like on brakes or under a vehicle. Keeps all the tools and small parts corralled.
YMMV
 

Attachments

  • Tool trolley 2.jpg
    Tool trolley 2.jpg
    168.8 KB · Views: 59
Here's a pic of my "tool trolley". It's a flat wooden box about 12" x 12", I picked it up about 30 year ago, put 4 casters on it. I use it when working at floor level like on brakes or under a vehicle. Keeps all the tools and small parts corralled.
YMMV

I have one similar, my only suggestion is to add a magnetic pan to hold small parts
(available @ HF free on occasion) http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-magnetic-parts-holder-61428.html
 
A friend used an old creeper, with a back board & peg board hooks & always kept it loaded, with ANYTHING he might need under the car.
Also, IF you work over a cement pit, paint its' walls APPLIANCE WHITE & you WON'T even need a DROP LIGHT!
Bill W.
 
Here's a pic of my "tool trolley". It's a flat wooden box about 12" x 12", I picked it up about 30 year ago, put 4 casters on it. I use it when working at floor level like on brakes or under a vehicle. Keeps all the tools and small parts corralled.
YMMV

That is great idea!
 
trk overheating, today drained coolant,engine pans in pristine shape.lined pan with alum foil to catch in a bucket.worked great & could see particals coming out with petcock slightly open. added rad flush & will do again this week.don't think I would see particals on my black pans.vinagar next time if not satisfied. tom
 
WARNING!!!! WARNING!!!! WARNING!!!!

Under NO circumstances should the suggestion in response #57 be attempted (using the 22-cartridges). You have absolutely no control over pressures that could develop.

I hope everyone can see the danger this could be.
 
I have found a few tools that help me time my rig. Not being an expert in this area, I find these tools get my timing as good as I need it. They are the ratchet nut wrench: http://www.brattons.com/product.asp...artPosition=1&strSearchCriteria=any&PT_ID=all
the quick set point setting tool:http://www.brattons.com/product.asp...artPosition=1&strSearchCriteria=any&PT_ID=all
and the timing cam wrench tool:http://www.brattons.com/product.asp...artPosition=1&strSearchCriteria=any&PT_ID=all

I take the top off the distributor and hit the starter until the rotor is about at the #1 pin. Then I use the ratchet nut wrench to get the timing pin at exactly TDC (this wrench make it easy rather that using the crank). Then I use the timing cam wrench tool to get the cam set the way it should be at #1 pin. Then put the rotor back on to check how it lines up with #1 (the way the books say you should have it). Then I take the rotor off again and use the quick set point setting tool to set the points. I find this tool will set the points at about .22 which I like for a new set of points.

So hope this helps someone other than me. Yes it does cost a bit in tools but this is a lot better than having you A run bad because you can't get it in time.
 
I am not trying to rain on any party.

Just trying to save a life! I have been a reloader for over 50-years, and have seen what over-pressure can do.
 
Back
Top