Seat springs and squeeks

G

Gus

Member
Hi all, I am part way through a resto of my 28 Tudor. I have stripped the old seats of their upholstery (3 layers!) and inspected them. I want to avoid any squeeks or nasty noises when they are all together and wondered if there were any tips or tricks that I could use before recovering the seats. I was considering rubber paint, or tying the springs together with modern material instead of the old wire clips.
Also, does the rear bench seat just sit on the steel seat base/frame? or is there some sort of fabric gasket?

Cheers
 
Before I got infected with "A" fever, I restored a 1931 Chrysler sedan. The seat springs were inserted in individual pockets in burlap. A little hard to explain. This method was used to have non-squeak seat springs. It worked, too. Email me if you have questions.
 
Good thought. I have seen bed springs done that way too. I am going to get them dipped to remove rust I think. Then I can start with a clean slate. Does anyone know if you can MIG or Gas weld spring wire? I have a couple of broken wires.

Cheers
 
Gus, It's pretty tough to weld the wire as it is made from spring steel. The wire you mention is generally called edge wire and is available at auto upholstery supply warehouses. It's pretty easy to shape the new wire. There are special connectors that slip over the wire and crimp shut. Just make sure to overlap the two ends by an inch or two.
 
Your 28 Tudor runs so quiet that the seat springs can be heard?

That's phenomenal and not possible in our Roadster.
Rubber paint? That be Plastasol from ACE Hardware?
Your not driving a submarine here.
I don't think I'd weld any springs 'cause the word 'temper' comes to mind.
De rust springs...soak them in Muriatic Acid for a few minutes, rinse paint and dip in rubber paint.


Snicker snicker, skip.
 
speaking from experience, something to consider is new springs. when I did mine I reupholstered the original (lightly compressed) springs.... looked good to me right? after a few miles of sitting on those springs it was apparent I did not compess enough. re-did it...and again...new front seat spring took care of it. my rear seat & backrest springs are still original. my 2cw
 
I agree with Bob except the connectors I use to close the top edge wire are butt connectors just like you will find on your original springs. No, welding will not work except for looks!

I've rarely if ever had a problem with noisy springs. The spring units often need to be reshaped a bit to return the symmetry. You will usually find some of the clips have loosened and slid along the edge wire from their original position. The last thing is to recrimp or tighten all the clips. Note the diagonal wires running fore/aft, top to bottom. These are critical for stabilizing the spring.

If you have any notable rust pitting on the majority of the spring coils you may need to rethink everything. If bad they will be weakened and possibly brittle.



 
I have been successful in repairing broken springs by taking a small length of brass tubing bought at a model airplane store with the correct ID, shaping it to match the curve, and soldering it to the broken spring. I have also wound new springs using music wire purchased from McMaster-Carr. The repair is a lot easier. Gar Williams
 
It's nice to read all these tips. My rear seat base spring has a couple of broken edge wires (where the diagonal brace wires cross them.) Does anybody know a particular source for the metal tubes that can be used to make a butt joint in the wire?

Doug
 
Great tips thanks. I think I will 'sleeve' the broken wires with copper tubing and crimp them. I have relocated the springs and support wires back to their original positions and paint should help avoid any squeeks too. Thanks again.
 
Gus said:
Great tips thanks. I think I will 'sleeve' the broken wires with copper tubing and crimp them. I have relocated the springs and support wires back to their original positions and paint should help avoid any squeeks too. Thanks again.
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I would advise getting the proper steel sleeves for springs. If your local trim shop doesn't have them then try Snyders as they manufacture seat springs. Get a couple extras. Note how the original on the top edge wire is crimped to bite on the wire. Don't use this method on any of the diagonals. Replace any diagonals that are broken.
 
hey fellows after 40 years it is time to buy new springs sniders springs are great over the years i have baught 6 or 7 sets they are not that costly
 
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