seam sealer on door skins

Ray Balukas

Ray Balukas

Senior Member
What are the thoughts on using seam sealer on the door skins? I realize this was not done in 37. The previous owner soldered the door skins. My panel is going to be a driver, but mostly original.
 
Can't hurt. But if the skins were soldered/brazed, I would have more concern about any residual flux or acid in the seams that may migrate at some time later.
Sealing the inner seam would be effective in preventing moisture from entering the seam.
 

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I use zink chromate primer on the faying surfaces before I crimp & weld the skins. Some use the Por 15 in there. Seam sealer is OK but it can intrap more than it keeps out after it gets old and starts to crack.
 
I have never seen a sealer that doesn't crack over time and the elements. If you store the car in a temperature and humidity controlled environment, it will last much longer but it will still slowly deteriorate.
 
rotorwrench said:
I have never seen a sealer that doesn't crack over time and the elements. If you store the car in a temperature and humidity controlled environment, it will last much longer but it will still slowly deteriorate.
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So you are saying that you have actually seen Urethane seam sealer that has cracked or is it just speculation?
 
Instead of sealing the joint I prefer to pour several ounces of SEM Rust Seal onto/into both sides of the joint, then rotate the door allowing the liquid to completely saturate the area with the excess allowed to draining out. Seam sealers good or bad can trap moisture.
 
There are door skin adhesives on the market. They require no welding and will seal both sides of the skin of course that requires instaling a new skin. 3-M drip check sealer will stay flexable and will not crack. I have been using it for more than 40 years. It works.
 
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