Sealing oil leaks?

I found NAPA Solenoid. Might be the same Lang's is selling, just different label.
The switch doesn't care what voltage you use it for. I am taking a chance with the switch above, who is electronic switch with unknow amp rating, but coming from China it is very cheap. It is flat, so I can glue it anywhere.
Any other switches are much taller and would have require drilling a hole.
On edit
I found Lang's is also having starter switches, who I hope will operate ignition like the old one. No good description, so I posted a question.
My original ignition switch is beaten up, so maybe I will go this route.
 
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In my OP: As far as the shown switch goes, you would rather glue that ugly switch somewhere over drilling a small hole on the drivers side seat riser (which is were many put it)? A momentary switch would only stick out about 1/2-5/8". Those wires might be fine for 12 volts, but might be too light for 6. You are going to have a good amount of current flowing to the magnet in the solenoid which is why 6 volt wires are larger then 12. Do you have a number on the switch at Lang's? The original ignition switch on the panel is just a simple on/off/on.
 
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Ignition switch is https://www.modeltford.com/item/A-STSOLK.aspx
I might have some time today to take old switch out for inspection. But even if I fix electrical contacts, the tumbler is pretty wear out and I think screwdriver will turn it.
So putting new ignition switch would solve few issues in single job.
My generator is not charging, at least per the ammeter and having spare VR I plan to put it in. Anything else to observe?
 
If you use the switch shown in the link, you will have to mount it elsewhere. If you mount in place of the tumbler you will loose the light switch.

I have asked but you have not posted a reply; are you running a distributor and is the car setup for 6 or 12 volts?

Have you put a meter on the generator post to check output?
 
I have original 6V
The Lang's description says it is ignition switch for Model T, that is why I was hoping it would be direct replacement with starter upgrade.
I will wait for them to answer the question, unless you already have experience with this switch?
Friends invited us for BBQ this afternoon, so here goes my generator testing.
Have a nice weekend.
 
Maybe not better but an awful lot of people do it. Many as a safety thing others like me, have a hard time getting our heel on the starter button, loss of mobility in my left ankle so my 25 will be getting one.
 
The ebay solenoid come defected, but I found on amazon another one, who is direct replacement for later Ford solenoids https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0792L7TZ2/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Lang's did not answer my question about their ignition switch, but I took original switch apart and it is integrated switch with headlights switch, so I confirm it will not fit model T directly.
Original switch comes apart with small twist and contacts are easy to clean, so I decided to put starter switch hidden under the dashboard. Unfortunately the original ignition switch directs the battery power to coils, so I can't use it for start button activation, or maybe I can?
Funny observation, yesterday doing grocery shopping a guy in front of me was carrying .... steering wheel. I wonder what it was, but concluded that he had to drive some kind of project car and having no other security- taking steering wheel with him was the solution.
 
Hey Red....My 19 came without a starter but one can be added, which I did.
I put the switch on the floor out or the way so far that I couldn’t reach it, but carry a 2 ft 1x2 as a starting aid
 
UPDATE.
6V solenoid come with ground activation, so running it via ignition was not an option.
I bought nice , flat, start switch, but it turned to be electronic switch with some circuit board, so I found small limit switch in my garage junk, who I bolted under the dashboard for starter activation.
Works pretty well.
I changed the oil and put 10W50 for hot summer, while filling it only 1/2 of the sight glass. (3 quarts)
So far that seems to stop the drips on park car. Will do more driving in coming days, so I will see how it works on hot engine.
 
Growing up there was an acronym RIF, reading is fundamental.

Everyone deserves a second chance:D, Fordbarn thrives on knowledge and helping others in the hobby.

O.K. lets try this again......not sure how your solenoid adventure correlates with "sealing oil leaks" but you seem to be all over the map, so back on topic.

The T should take 4 (four) quarts and just start to drip out the upper petcock.

As previously posted, having some general publications regarding ownership and service of the model T would help in the "question marathon" and guessing game in regards to ownership and proper "service" of a model T.

More concerned with that poor T....it's really not that hard fella, the model T has been around for over 100 years with millions of miles driven.

Just a little understanding of what you got and need to do.....FROM READING:eek:
 
Did they have any variations between oil pans?
My oil was at the top of sight glass and I collected less than 3.5 qt, having it dripping overnight.
Fact is that engine was just warm, not hot, so maybe I had some cold oil staying in the passages.
 
The bolted on lower cover holds a half of quart or so in the "oil dips" depending if it's a 3 dip or 4 dip.
 
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