Sealing a 28 tank

B

Beecher

Member
Sorry if this has been covered, but a search didnt help.

Id really like to seal my 28 fuel tank this weekend, but not sure how to treat the fuel line hole in the bottom. Do I plug it and leave it plugged untill the sealer has cured, or slosh then pull it out? (which I would assume means chasing the threads afterward to get the sealer out?)

Thanks for any input.

The tank has been hot tanked, a few small pin holes welded up (till it held water), I then tinned the whole outside bottom of the tank with lead, and now about to do the Bill Hirsche kit on it.

Thanks so much!
 
I would be real cautious about sealing your gas tank. Some sealers will start coming off in time and then you really have a mess. If your gas tank isn't rusted badly, cleaning out the rust and and using a pencil filter on the shutoff valve and maybe a fuel line filter would take care of the small amount of rust that might be left. There are numerous horror stories of tank sealing material separating and plugging the fuel lines.
Rusty Nelson
 
I sealed the sedan tank using the POR15 gas tank sealer. It has held up to all kinds of gas including the higher ethanol fuels in Colorado with no problems. I'm hoping the tank is out of the car so you can rotate it in all directions with the sealer in it. You need to get it past the baffles in the tank to get over to where the steering column attaches.
 
Beecher said:
Sorry if this has been covered, but a search didnt help.

Id really like to seal my 28 fuel tank this weekend, but not sure how to treat the fuel line hole in the bottom. Do I plug it and leave it plugged untill the sealer has cured, or slosh then pull it out? (which I would assume means chasing the threads afterward to get the sealer out?)

Thanks for any input.

The tank has been hot tanked, a few small pin holes welded up (till it held water), I then tinned the whole outside bottom of the tank with lead, and now about to do the Bill Hirsche kit on it.

Thanks so much!
Click to expand...

Do NOT use the Hirsch sealer. The POR-15 is a better choice however if the tank has been boiled out with caustic, it will dissolve the terne finish protecting the inside metal. Bare metal inside the tank flash rusts. Fine surface rust affects the adhesion of the sealer.
 
I have used the white sealer from hit & miss. Has been in tanks of mine for 20 years and still perfect. One tank was so bad the sealer leaked through the tank, made a big mess. But it held and many years later still good. The red sealer from Napa did not hold up for me. Slowly flows, so it eventually plugs the tank outlet. Sorry don't remember the brands. Will look and see if I still have the can.
 
eagle said:
I have used the white sealer from hit & miss. Has been in tanks of mine for 20 years and still perfect. One tank was so bad the sealer leaked through the tank, made a big mess. But it held and many years later still good. The red sealer from Napa did not hold up ..............
Click to expand...

Who/What is "hit and miss" ??

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Funny Brent, I used the white Hirsch sealer for years and never had a problem. It was
all of the other brands that I have had failure with............
 
Used a standard pipe plug for one I did last June.

Placed tank in hot attic as each step was completed. Also circulated hot air through tank with wife's hair dryer (she never noticed).

Followed kit (Hirsch) directions to the letter, both the etching and sealer.

Sealer remains intact after many refuelings (3k+ mi).
 
I used Hirsch sealer and was sorry I did. After a couple years is started "sheeting" off. I used the etch Hirsch recommended and let it dry properly before applying the Hirsch sealer. I also waited quite some time before putting any gasoline in the tank. I would never used it again, period.
Rusty Nelson
 
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