Sealer for Installing Top material

verdirick

Senior Member
Help:
I am looking for any recommendation for a sealer to use when installing top material. I am told to avoid using silicone. Has anyone had any experience with material to use? Appreciate any help.
Thanks
Rick Jensen
verdirick1@gmail.com
775-345-0203
 
If you have a marine shop nearby try to find black "SIKAFLEX " the best there is. There 3 types but you can use all versions .
 
I use Black colored Latex Caulk. Not sure why someone said don't use silicone, ...and often caulk is mistaken for silicone but if it was applied correctly, I'm not so sure it would hurt anything.

.
 
On someones advice I purchased some Geocel 3300 Polyurethane roofing sealant.
I haven't used it yet but it looks like it will be good for the job.
 
I have used a product called "Spatz-Patch"...It comes in a roll, it is about 1-1/2 to 2 inches wide, about 3/32 inch thick and is a black-tar type substance which is very easy to work with and not messy.

Just lay it where you want it (metal to wood, around tack areas on the top, headers, ect).

Pluck
 
Urethane windshield sealant works well. Warm it up a little and it can be dispensed from a calking gun fairly easily. It is both and adhesive and sealant and is black in color.
 
Tremsil 600 is a product that is used industrially to seal sunrooms and adhears very well to metal, wood and glass. It stands up well to heat and sun and comes in a caulking gun tube. It made by Tremco company.
 
Having worked around auto glass and glue for roughly 30 yrs, here's some of my findings.
1) Soft, butyl based black sealer will stay pliable virtually forever. It will soften on warm days and spread deeper into the joints. It also has the advantage of wicking minute traces of petroleum into the pores of exposed metal, acting as a terrific rust inhibitor. It's available in rolls of many sizes (by Tremco & Essex) including 1/16 x 3/8 wide.It can be laid along a line and nails driven through so it squeezes out. Also put up in standard chalking tubes by CR Laurence company.
Any residue can be sheared off with a popcycle stick. Mild petroleum based solvent can be used to finish edges and butyl dries to a non tacky soft film in a few hours.
Shelf life is pretty much forever.

2) Urethane, when dry, has the consistancy of a rubber tire. If applied to a smooth clean surface it will either stick like S.T.A BLANKET...or not at all. Nothing in between...it works well or not at all.
Cleanup can be messy. You usually have a short time frame to work it, and if it "skins over" the adhesion becomes almost nill.
Urethane comes in 3 viscosities. The catalyst for urethane is moisture so wear gloves as it begins setting up in minutes on bare skin. Urethane has primarily been used to hold windshields in cars since the early 70's. Shelf life is a few months after opened.
I can't really think of anywhere I would use it on my Model A.

3) Silicone is great for bathtubs & boobs. It exudes an acid which promotes corrosion around bare metal at a fierce rate.
*PAINTED surfaces seem to be protected from it's evils, although it can stain paint and glass if water carries the acid down a surface and it dries.
When silicone is put around a vehicle's windshield (in areas which leak) the result is intense black rust...soon resulting in holes corroded right through the metal.
On RV's, which seem to ALL leak, silicone sticks for awhile to the fiberglass, giving a false feel of security and then breaks down & permits leaks, leaving the inner structure to rot from within.
Below is just some pictures I had of the pinchweld above the windshield, on a van which had the windshield "siliconed" a few years previously.
 

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Dear Robert as I have wrote in a post above SIKAFLEX as availeble from Marine stores. This product is used around windows for sea going boats and other . This product contains NO sillicone.
 
To my knowledge Silkaflex is a sealant used in the construction industry. I used it as a sealant in the roofing industry. Great stuff. Try a roofing supply like ABC Roofing(a national company). I know the insulators, and the sheet metal guys are familiar with it. Goeseal, and Tremco are also good quality products. I think acetic acid is the acid referred to above, that vinegar smell from curing silicone. rust likes acetic acid. Bob
 
Just to clearify...Sika is a company who makes various grades of urethane which is popular in the marine industry. They also make several grades for gluing in windshields although you must prep the surfaces with 2 different Sika primers to ensure it adheres. I'm not as familiar with the marine grades but I know some of them are softer and may not require primer.

My roof will be sealed with soft black butyl, when that day comes.
 
Tremsil 600 can be looked up with Google, but I was able to order a case of it (big job to do) through a local glass repair shop. The New England supplier was one of the people they dealt with and for me it was cheaper than ordering it over the internet. It comes in bronze, blk., white, and clear. I paid about $6.00 a tube / case of 24. After using different kinds of caulking from the hardware store over the years, cheap to expensive, I use this for most things now. Do the research on Google - There is alot of Tech info out there to see if it will meet YOUR needs.
 
search for sikaflex 291, I know the marine stores around here have it, and the industrial plastic and paint store.
 
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