Sealed Beam Headlights Troubles

Jerry McConnell

Jerry McConnell

Member
From reading other postings, most of you will recommend going back to original headlights, but my budget is limited. I replaced the wiring harness and the sealed beam connectors along with soldering the ground wire to the inside of the bucket. I checked the headlight bulbs for continuity and have power (6V system) to the connector but the headlights do not come on. My tail light works. I am having problems with the light switch bail also opening when I turn the switch. Does anyone have any recommendations? Jerry
 
Jerry - Without actually seeing the situation, I will be limited what I can tell you.

A similar problem occurred on a club member's car; while the bail was not coming loose (I am guessing that is what you are trying to state), the lights were not working.

The short answer is the clip on the end of the light switch rod was off by 90-degrees. I don't know what else to tell you; maybe others have had similar problems with different solutions.
 
The best approach in situations like this is to follow your wiring schematic. Use that to trace down the problem.

Following a schematic first involves placing the positive lead of your multi-meter on any ground point, usually the engine or frame or in this case the headlight itself (assuming a pos ground system). Next place the negative lead on connection points represented by your schematic and note the voltage on your meter. Use an analog meter if the engine is running. Take a reading at each connection point shown on the schematic. Start at the battery and work "toward" the lights, or vise-versa. You should notice a point where there is no voltage. Once you do, concentrate your efforts on that area. It could be the switch, a bad connection, bad ground, a broken wire, a disconnect, a non-connection, etc.

You are essentially looking at your schematic and asking, "do I have voltage here, here, and here?"
 
Bad ground or a bad splice.
I bet the voltage at the bulb goes to near zero when the bulb is plugged in but reads good when bulb is removed.
 
With the bail coming loose there's nothing keeping the contact surfaces together to transmit power to the headlights. Ck continuity from light sw assy to the headlights. FWIW
Paul in CT
 
I want to thank everyone for their replies. I went through and checked all the grounds and checked my slices and was unable to get the lights to work. I was talking to someone at work an he advised me to go back and check to see if I had the wires to the right terminals at the terminal box and coil. I took the terminal block cover off and pulled the coil from the mount and check the connections, everything was correct; still no lights. I looked outside last night and my Model A lights were on. I dont't know what the problem was or is. Jerry
 
I would look at the switch at the bottom of the steering column. The horn/lights power is picked up on the output side of the cutout and the power feeds into the light switch. From there it is switched to the contacts and back out to the light bulbs. There were two different length bail wires and light switch covers used. Make sure you have the right one to hold the switch securely in place. The wire terminals should be soldered to the swtich plate contact posts. If they are just slip on then they may be loose.

You mentioned sealed beam, and they draw about twice the current as stock headlamps, and may have melted a repro plastic contact plate. Remember, a poor contact makes high resistence, which can heat up and cause problems.
 
Put a charge on the battery to make sure you have full charge at the battery. Doesn't sound logical, but you could also have a flat battery to complicate the wiring problem.
 
I believe I have identified the trouble to be in the replacement light switch or harness that I bought. Currently, I am having problems turning the lights off using the the horn rod. I seat the switch on the keyway and then it springs forward a little, maybe coming off the keyway. The switch feals loose and appears to turn with the rod untill the bail comes off. I donot know if I have the right lenght horn rod also, the spider is 19/32 long below the light switch bracket edge.
 

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Bob, That is exactly the way I have it installed. I read the post that you attached before I entered my post. How much spring action should I have if I grab my light switch and move it towards the steering column? Mind moves at least a half of an inch. Thanks Jerry
 
I just went and checked one of mine and there is no "Spring Action", if I
undo the bail the switch stays up against the bottom of the steering gear until
I pull it down. If you have spring tension pushing it down your horn rod may
be to long, the spider retainer is missing , or the spider is not lining up with
the slots in the switch.

Bob
 
Thanks Bob for checking your Model A. I certanly have something wrong, I believe I will start with a new horn rod, everything else is new.
 
The light switch body comes in two lengths and the bail in one. You have got to get everything lined up in the body and the body lined up in the column and then snap the bail in position. The body should not move out of place. You may have to tweak the bail to get a good grip on the body.

Sewall Tyler
 
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