Scrap Yard Engine Blocks

B

Brad1929

Junior Member
A local scrap metals facility has several bare "A" engine blocks and cranks for sale. These are in the open and surface rusty but not heavily pitted. I think they are priced at .18 cents a pound. I have spoken to the man who turned them in. He said the blocks were cracked and I could see the lower corner water jacket type crack in one of them. I never asked about the cranks, but I would guess they are in need of, or beyond, turning down.

So, my question is- Would these be worth getting ? I hate to think of them getting melted down if they could be saved. Thanks.
 
1930 coupe said:
If they are cheap, buy them for educational purposes, practice putting them together and taking them apart, then when the one in your car needs something you will know how to do it. If the scrap yard has one of those cranes with the large magnet on it, you need to check the crankshaft and camshaft for magnetism. I have seen crankshafts that you can pick up wrenches with. You can use a armature growler to remove the magnetism. Turn on the growler and rub it all over the part, then move the part 2 or 3 feet away from the growler before turning the growler off. You might have to do it several times on large parts before you get all the magnetism out. When I put a engine together I check every part for magnetism, Tie a paper clip on a string about a foot long and move it by all of your parts and see if it sticks. Rear axles make real good magnets, if your parts are magnetic the metal flakes will stick to them and tear up your bearings instead of falling to the bottom of the pan.
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That is great information..

Larry
 
A block which is not worth fixing is still good to make an engine cutaway for display.
They are also good as an anvil of sorts.
 
Just today , I just scrapped 4000 pounds of blocks that were not suitable to rebuild. We have bought over 200 engines this year, and many (about 80% of them) are not fixable. But, we have saved hundreds more that we will have to fix someday. While their are a lot of blocks out there in barns and under the workbench, the problem is that most of them are in the barn or under the workbench BECAUSE they were determined to be damaged. The good ones were put in cars.

Steve Becker
Bert's Model A Center
 
Back in 1968 and 69 I worked for a big construction Company and quarry that had lots of Cat and Cummins engines in equipment and trucks. A lot of the cranks got worn and reground to the limit then sent off to be built back up with hard chrome. The hard chrome would out last the original steel surfaces on the cranks. Does anyone still do this and what about "A" cranks being built up?
 
If all that is wrong is an outside water jacket crack, those are a piece of cake to weld.
Cranks can be welded also.
 
Gold Digger said:
Back in 1968 and 69 I worked for a big construction Company and quarry that had lots of Cat and Cummins engines in equipment and trucks. A lot of the cranks got worn and reground to the limit then sent off to be built back up with hard chrome. The hard chrome would out last the original steel surfaces on the cranks. Does anyone still do this and what about "A" cranks being built up?
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Digger,
Once had a 270 G.M.C, with a knock. A previous "METAL SPRAY" build up on a rod throw, had become "un-bonded" from the crank. It was still in ONE PIECE!
Bill W.
 
J&M Machine is always posting the cracks they are fixing.

If the bores are not way out they can be stitched together (not welded) even through the valve seats.

You have to look at other areas for damage and 'fixes' that make the block unusable.

At $.18 a Lb I think you are talking less then $15 each I believe. They may be worth a look. What are your needs?
 
SteveB31 said:
Just today , I just scrapped 4000 pounds of blocks that were not suitable to rebuild. We have bought over 200 engines this year, and many (about 80% of them) are not fixable. But, we have saved hundreds more that we will have to fix someday. While their are a lot of blocks out there in barns and under the workbench, the problem is that most of them are in the barn or under the workbench BECAUSE they were determined to be damaged. The good ones were put in cars.

Steve Becker
Bert's Model A Center
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Physically not fixable or not economically fixable?
 
Other than using a block for display or making cutaway views, I would not consider using a block that requires fixing cracks; with the investment of insert bearings, counter balanced crank, lightened flywheel, high compression head, new cam, etc., why start with a block that needs repair ?

Ron
 
Until someone produced a new block ((all cheers for Tod and others)) I think all block should be inspected for possible reuse... at this point there is no other source...
 
Buy them, mend them, use them as axle stands, study them for fun, cut ones that have rear main web cracks down into 2 cylinder engines for fun. All sorts of uses for cracked blocks.
 
Let the blocks rest in peace.

In 20 years there will be hundreds of complete original model A/s that no one wants.

Will be lucky if any current stooped necked into phones crowd will even be interested in any car that is not electric and drive itself after we are all below ground.

Whatever you do, do not start a long term model A project or think about saving what others have thrown out unless you are a closet hoarder .....
 
A few years ago nobody wanted hot rods either. Couldn't give them away. They were owned by a bunch of old guys. The local hot rod magazine tried all sorts of tricks to get more readers and folded.

So what happened?
 
Unfortunately I had a similar situation with a number of blocks and engines. I had a early 28 with the extra cam bearing and block was hot tanked and magnaflux. It had no issues and dragged it to a few model a swapmeets. swap meets. I had no takers and just gave it away to a model a collector. I still have a few and just can't get myself to scrap them I even have a B motor block. I always figure a few bucks for them but I guess not.
 
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