sbc engine install 34 ford help

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phatssbigboi

Member
Thanks for the help on my last post.

any info on a sbc swap into the 34

I don't want the ford and chevy debate :p.

I dont want modify the car too much because I will be putting a flattie in down the road but for now I will go with a sbc 307 150hp to get her running while the flattie is being built.

The sbc complete driveline running with the trans and is free. Im upgrading the rear suspension to leaf springs with a 9' ford rear which i have already and disk brakes up front. So the sbc drive line is only going to be used 3 or 4 years and I plan to swap back to a flattie, but will be keeping the auto trans.

No it's not an option to run the flattie the way it is and build it up while I drive it I live in Chicago IL in the city, this isnt a hot rod friendly place.

To build the flattie the way I want it will cost me $5500 which will take me 3 or 4 years to save (kids, ex wife, bad economy ect, ect)

Again I'm not looking for a debate on this just info on the swap.

Im quite intersted in using a front cradle to mount the sbc like the one in speedway sells part#135-6023

Also what if any mods did you make on the swap

I dont want to cut the firewall I have seen a few sbc in rat rods without the fire wall being cut.

any info will help.
 
I'm putting an SBC in a '32 and I'm using a crossmember type motor mount. Just seems more structurally sound than a front motor mount like you listed. (No twisting on frame, shorter length on engine/trans between mounts.)
 
I use Chassis Engineering engine mount kits that mount to the framerails. The bolt on version can be removed when you return to your flathead engine. Good luck, Al
 
What are you planning to do about the 'length-problem' ? Last time I had anything to do with a Chevy in a 34, there wasn't quite enough room, with the smallest possible distributor barely kissing the firewall, and the shortest pulley setup found, not fitting within the front crossmember. What was done... a little bit of porta-power against the firewall, to push it back, minimum - not enough to see. And, lengthened the wheelbase, 3/8 inch, by moving the crossmember forward 3/8, and lengthened the radius rods 3/8. I've forgotten, but I think the front pulley used might have been from a 55-56 Chevy 265 ??? Tried using a points-type Chevy distributor, and later found a Mallory, which is smaller in diameter. Barely fit.
And, front mounts were custom, to bolt to the stock 34 donuts. It's a clean & professional setup, and has been on the road for several years (not mine - a rodder-friend).
 
A SBC will fit with out cutting a thing and doing any damage that can't be redone by future generation. As far as the fit in the length, very tight and more issues fitting a Fan (mechanical ) electric will fit but is ugly and too new:D. You will be using a transmission adapter for the 39 style trans and I am sure most don't know that different makers are different sizes or depths. Early wicaps are 3/4 shorter then the new ones made and 3/4 of a inch makes a big difference when fitting in the SBC. rams type exaust manifold will clear the 33-34 steering box and you will need a short water pump and single pullies for the pump and crank and I use the 283 265 motors with front mounts like a 55-56 chevy. The fan is a ***** to find and has to have the depth towards the motor and has to be flat against the radiator. You can fudge the radaitor by moving her forward 7/16 of a inch with new mounting holes and use a 4 cylinder original radiator and move the bottom outlet. The 4 cylinder radiator is 7/16 more narrow then the v8. As for the distributor early 55-57 chevy points have been around as long as the 33-34 and work great and its small too. Good luck in the project thanks
 
I'd be more concerned about how that automatic trans will fit your center crossmembers and floor.

Another issue with the front engine mounts as the 55-56 chevs used, they had mounts near the bellhousing, so there wasn't the stress of the full distance between the front of engine to the tailshaft mount of trans.... (what PeteVs mentioned above)

Anyway, good luck with your project!
 
I have a 350 turbo in my 34 and had to remove a part of the inner lip on the crossmember, I rewelded it on the outside for strength. You can make it all fit. Another route is th V6 chevy, it is a 350 with the 3rd cylinder removerd. You use everything for the 350 but have plenty of room. I have had 2 of the V6 and they perform excellent in the Ford.
 
I have a '56 265 in a stock 32 Tudor. A No Name trans adapter I bought at Rhinebeck 12 yrs ago , it came with an inch of grease and a flywheel. The Chevy is up against a 39 trans and a 34 rear (I shortened the torque tube & shaft). The only cut was about an inch or so out of the front Xmember to clear the crank pulley. No mods to the firewall, it clears the Mallory dist. with no issues. Uncut wishbone that clears the '57 283 rams horn exhaust maniflods. I used a Zips water pump riser with a 6cyl. w/pump. I used Mr. Roadster aluminum motor mounts off the stock Chevy holes in the block to Hurst Mounts on the frame (boxed from the front to the center Xmember). F1 Steering and Lincoln brakes and 40 Ford steelies all around with a brake kit from Rich @ the Early V8 Garage. No sacrilege here. I saved a complete 32 Tudor that the frame and running gear was removed for a roadster( Not by me). The frame I used is a set of ASC rails with original 32 Xmembers. Some day if the right original frame comes along I may transfer the body back. So for now... it's a neat old car that is dead reliable and great fun to drive.
 
That old long stovebolt 6 Chevy engine does have merit doesn't it?

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I would also recommend the V-6 motor. Plenty of clearance and it will bolt right up to the turbo 350. I built a 32 roadster (Wescott body) with a 231 Buick V-6. Plenty of power and lots of room in the engine compartment. The later Chevy V-6 ( 4.3) is a very common motor and there's lots of them around for not a lot of money.
 
phatssbigboi said:
Thanks for the help on my last post.

any info on a sbc swap into the 34

I don't want the ford and chevy debate :p.

I dont want modify the car too much because I will be putting a flattie in down the road but for now I will go with a sbc 307 150hp to get her running while the flattie is being built.

The sbc complete driveline running with the trans and is free. Im upgrading the rear suspension to leaf springs with a 9' ford rear which i have already and disk brakes up front. So the sbc drive line is only going to be used 3 or 4 years and I plan to swap back to a flattie, but will be keeping the auto trans.

No it's not an option to run the flattie the way it is and build it up while I drive it I live in Chicago IL in the city, this isnt a hot rod friendly place.

To build the flattie the way I want it will cost me $5500 which will take me 3 or 4 years to save (kids, ex wife, bad economy ect, ect)

Again I'm not looking for a debate on this just info on the swap.

Im quite intersted in using a front cradle to mount the sbc like the one in speedway sells part#135-6023

Also what if any mods did you make on the swap

I dont want to cut the firewall I have seen a few sbc in rat rods without the fire wall being cut.

any info will help.
Click to expand...

I've got a better idea. Instead of screwing up yet another fine Ford automobile with a bland x engine why don't you simply buy a running Flathead for the time being? There are probably many available in your area made available by other people ruining their old Fords with bland x engines. I would shoot for a 24 stud from like say `39 to `48. Be ahelluva lot easier than going a complete different engine design, no? You don't have to replace the driveline or the suspension. Upgrade to hydraulic brakes and drive it. If you really want a Flathead car in the end build a Flathead now. Your exhaust will be the same. Your cooling system, clutch, wiring, charging system, starter, and a myriad of other items will be the same. Why do this twice? If you can't buy a decent running stock Ford Flathead that bolts in, for what it would cost to just mount that "bland x" lump in there I'll eat my hat!

This is not a debate post, rather it is the best advice if you want to have some real fun driving your car as soon as possible.
 
The requirement for the auto trans really complicates the project. The Chevy trans is not really compatable with the flathead. A C4 is better. Do you really want a auto?? You would have to do the engine ****** swap with the mounts and driveshaft and then turn around and do it all over again. I would swap in V6 to the existing trans and drive it. You would change very little and would be easly converted back to the flathead. I would really prefer to find a stand in flathead while the other is being built.
I would choose a Ford 8 in over a 9 for several reasons. They are lighter and take less power to turn them. If you use wheel adapters on a Maverick, the wires will clear the brake drums. They don't clear 9in drums. I have not seen disks that clear wires so I guess they are going as well.
You might just consider selling the car and buying a street rod with all the changes done and proven to work. A lot of cars have been screwed up with supposedly experts doing work that is poorly thought out and exicuted.
 
putting leaf springs etc on the frame is another butcher job not needed. I ran a Olds for years in a 40 with basically stock running gear and never tore a rear end out. Got lots of transmissions but that was stupidity. If you drive one hard enough to tear a trans out you are going to do more damange along the line.
 
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