Say it ain't so steering box

MotownMachine

MotownMachine

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I noticed some play in the steering the last time I kicked it up to 50 mph. Not quite the level of the infamous death wobble, but uncomfortable, nonetheless.

Drove it last week at slower speeds and did not notice looseness, but did notice an audible clunk when turning the wheel past center while stationary.

Jacked up, there is about 1/2" of play when shimmying the tires while straight. This shimmy goes away when turned right or left.

The play seems to go back all the way to the sector shaft. All of the adjustments on the steering box seem to be tightened all the way.

Is it time for a rebuild? Or is there something I am missing?

Thanks
 
The straight ahead position gets worn more than the other positions of the box because the car is mostly driven straight ahead. When new the box is tighter at the straight ahead position and looser during a turn. It need to be tight when driven straight ahead and not tight when turning. With all the adjustments tight and the steering is still loose when straight ahead that means the box is worn out. The clunk is not a good sign. Time for a rebuild.

You did not mention the year of the car but it looks like a 1930 or 31. Those boxes have a way to adjust them so that the steering is tight when straight ahead but not when turning. If that adjustment is wrong it will be tight to one side and loose when straight ahead. But not tight when the steering is at both right and left and loose in the middle. That can only indicate a worn out box.

There is a fitting on the box that looks like a grease fitting. Ford used that to install oil. The box should not have grease in it. Someone may have removed the fitting and put a pipe plug in instead, which is a good idea. The grease will get squished out of the moving parts and cause a dry condition, leading to rapid wear. Use a good grade of gear oil in the box.
 
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Ditto on the steering and it is possible to "close in" the two parts to improve the zero position free play.

One of my checks in adjusting the steering is to get it to the point where free play is zero at the zero position but increases EQUALLY when turned equally either way from center

The Service Bulletins cover pretty well the adjustment sequence. Doubtless it's online too.

https://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/THE-MODEL-A-STEERING-GEAR-January-2018.pdf

Many find a worn condition at center and in rationale replace both parts attempting to get it to track closer. Which it does - but is not necessary due to the "active interaction" between the steering tracking and the camber/castor geometry of the front end.

What kills a two tooth worm is "galling" at the mid position - which you'll "feel" in the wheel as you optimize the free play - and experience trouble going from one side of neutral to the other.

It is even possible to "grind" the two parts together to eliminate the gall - but by the time you get to this point, your time might be better spent with new parts.

Joe K
 
Not addressing the gearbox issue but maybe the uneasiness with the steering, when was the last time you checked the toe ? And possibly checking over the front end !
 
It looks like getting the two tooth worm and sector parts may not happen as right now I don't know anybody making them.Randy Gross has a Ford F-100 box that looks good as I might get one from him. It's not cheap but you can get it now and parts for it in the future. A little while ago Motometers were not available, I saw a used one on Ebay for $1500,they are back now new at twice the price of before. I think some parts are getting harder to get.I remember getting parts from J C Whitney in the 70's ,some fair some not worth it.I have an exhaust system from them still in good shape that was about $10 in 1970 something. I bought some transmission gears that I sent back,they were just a rough hobbed finish and not heat treated.
 
It ain't so!!! I said it!!
 

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The two tooth worm and sector gears are being reproduced and may be available by late fall as per one of our major 'A' parts suppliers.
 
I think if you put your front end up on car stands and follow the instructions in the service bulletins to the letter you will improve your steering, I you do not understand or do not follow the proper procedure your steering will suck.dont assume you are an ace mechanic and know better. The stock box is very well designed and built and properly adjusted there is no need to replace with a more modern unit. Having the adjustments "tightened up" only tells me you have already started down the wrong road. You will also learn from videos and other write ups.
 
7-Tooth steering boxes were used up into 1930 so we would need to know if it's a Ford or a Gemmer 2-Tooth design. I've found model As to have wear in every joint on the system. On Gemmer design units, the worm gear tends to wear out in the straight ahead position as was mentioned previously.

There was a change to the tapered roller bearings in mid 1930 so earlier gear boxes have to be updated if bearings are worn out. There's a service bulletin on the subject.

I
 
Hi, thanks for the replies. Finally got around to removing the box and steering column from the car this afternoon. The car is indeed a '30 with a two-tooth box as asked above
 
Here are the results of the worm gear and teeth. The worm has many fine lines in it. The teeth have two shiny grooves carved into the inside. While not as deeply ground as it appears, you can feel a little divot when running your finger overtop. Are replacement parts the preferred solution? Thanks
 

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You may be able to get by with using the old worm but the 2-tooth sector is kissed. It shows lack of lubrication. If you have been adding oil but found a mixture of grease and oil when you took it apart, that means that previous owner(s) had been using grease and that will lead to the kind of failure you are seeing. In my opinion it is false economy to re use used the parts. You are spending a lot of time to overhaul the box and you don't want to do it again for as long as you own the car. You want to use grade GL-5 gear oil in the box. That oil has additives that bind to the parts to reduce wear to a minimum.
 
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John Deere corn header lubricant is s semi fluidic grease that is very good for older units with early design seal systems. It is also very good for the universal joint on model A vehicles. The stuff is fluid when parts move but flows very little when at rest. It's weird stuff but it works. I think there are other brands of thixotropic greases now.
 
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