Saved Another One: 1928 AA
- Thread starter mramc1
- Start date
mramc1
Member
The construction of the Weaver style tow rig on my truck has commenced. I bought this BB chassis from another Ford Barner to get the winch spool off the rear.
Once in the garage I started with the winch base.
The boom is 2x3x0.25" angle. Bent with a lot of heat similar to a Weaver crane.
I ordered up square head bolts for final assembly for more authenticity.
Upper pulley mounted and shackle to hang the end hook.
Tail light, boom light, and start of the bumper.
The crank handle can operate either side of the drive gear.
Rear bumper with multiple balls, pivots for a sling, and pin hitch mount.
Once in the garage I started with the winch base.
The boom is 2x3x0.25" angle. Bent with a lot of heat similar to a Weaver crane.
I ordered up square head bolts for final assembly for more authenticity.
Upper pulley mounted and shackle to hang the end hook.
Tail light, boom light, and start of the bumper.
The crank handle can operate either side of the drive gear.
Rear bumper with multiple balls, pivots for a sling, and pin hitch mount.
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
Nice work, and that can be handy for a lot of things. Looks like it might have enough overhang to even change a motor.
I posted a link the other day to a Weaver hoist that is listed in the MPLS craigslist ad.
I posted a link the other day to a Weaver hoist that is listed in the MPLS craigslist ad.
mramc1
Member
The overhang is enough to do an engine. I think lack of weight on the front of the truck will be the limiting factor on how much the crane can lift. I have a large gear reduction and also a ****** block so the lifting capacity should be several thousand pounds.
I only have about $400 in the gears and steel so I'm well below market cost of finding an original Weaver.
Josh, Thanks for posting all the pix's. It is nice to see your Truck coming a long !!!So I got the engine running. Everything was good, but the #4 cylinder was dead. I pulled the head to see what was going on and I'm glad I did as there were a lot of rust flakes in the coolant passages that I then cleaned out.
The problem was a tiny amount of rust on the exhaust valve stem that held the valve up off the seat a few thousandths. After filing the rust off the stem I had a good seal and the head went back on
Engine runs good now. It looks like the engine was rebuilt at some point as there is little to no ridge on the cylinder walls and everything is tight. Time to get some sheet metal back on the front. First I got rid of the clunky homemade plow frame.
I found a front frame stub at Hershey with good horns.
So after some fitting and trimming I had good frame horns.
Now it's time to see how the fenders and braces fit.
Then a radiator and headlight bar.
Then the headlights.
Next up, some wheels and tires.
mramc1
Member
mramc1
Member
So here is pretty much the finished raw rig before paint. I have the cab protector built, the Guide headlamps and bus brake light mounted as well as an old commercial plate.
Made a winch dog lock.
Starting the disassembly for paint. Winch can be used to lower boom after support arms are unbolted.
Base painted and working on the boom.
Bam! All painted and reassembled.
Then I got carried away with the detailing and painted the pulleys, sprockets, and hooks red.
Also added an old exhaust stack that I liberated off a doodlebug cowl.
Taillight installed.
Can't wait to finish so I can pull the truck outside and wash it. Really want to see what the truck looks like completed in the sun.
Made a winch dog lock.
Starting the disassembly for paint. Winch can be used to lower boom after support arms are unbolted.
Base painted and working on the boom.
Bam! All painted and reassembled.
Then I got carried away with the detailing and painted the pulleys, sprockets, and hooks red.
Also added an old exhaust stack that I liberated off a doodlebug cowl.
Taillight installed.
Can't wait to finish so I can pull the truck outside and wash it. Really want to see what the truck looks like completed in the sun.
burner31
Well-known member
That's a pretty good looking "hooker" you got going there.
You have her rear end looking sweet, now just have to pretty up the face, she'll be a "head-turner" going down the road that's for sure.
One thing you're going have to get when you take it to a car show or function or just out cruising, is one of those snappy one piece shop coveralls, with a neat "old school" shop logo on the back and your name above the front pocket.
Top it off with a hat...and you're there.
You have her rear end looking sweet, now just have to pretty up the face, she'll be a "head-turner" going down the road that's for sure.
One thing you're going have to get when you take it to a car show or function or just out cruising, is one of those snappy one piece shop coveralls, with a neat "old school" shop logo on the back and your name above the front pocket.
Top it off with a hat...and you're there.
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Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
Looks great and a very useful truck to have.
Looks at your pictures in post #47. Did you really get all that done in just one month?
Looks at your pictures in post #47. Did you really get all that done in just one month?
mramc1
Member
I actually have an old '20s Ford white overcoat from a filling station. It would be really nice except someone wore it to stain their house and got stain splashed all over parts of it.
mramc1
Member
No, someone quoted a previous post. I got this truck back in July. Been working on it on and off since then.
mramc1
Member
Here is where the crank handle resides when not in use. It also holds the gear lock in place.
Got the rear wheels and drums painted. I was able to use the '30 disc wheels on the '28 rearend with a few modifications. I first screwed the dual wheel "Budd" studs onto the '28 single studs. Due to drum interference with the wheel hub hole I also had to machine 1/4" thick spacers that slip over the studs and sandwich between the drum hub face and wheel.
Got the rear wheels and drums painted. I was able to use the '30 disc wheels on the '28 rearend with a few modifications. I first screwed the dual wheel "Budd" studs onto the '28 single studs. Due to drum interference with the wheel hub hole I also had to machine 1/4" thick spacers that slip over the studs and sandwich between the drum hub face and wheel.
mramc1
Member
There are two grab hooks mounted up at the rear of the boom that will hold safety chains down to whatever I am hauling on the hook. Even if the dog popped out the chains will keep the load from falling.
Also the truck isn't going on the road, just trailered to a few shows. When in transport the crank will ride in the cab.
