Fullraceflathead
Well-known member
I'm looking for a front cross member, if that one is good and your not gonna use it please let me know.
Saved Another One: 1928 AA
- Thread starter mramc1
- Start date
mramc1
Member
Cross member is pretty hosed, but I'm keeping for parts.
Henry's Lady's Man
Senior Member
I've never seen front drums for an AA before. Are those stock drums?
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
Yes, the AA brake drums are enormous and can put you into the windshield if you step down hard.
Removing a AA rear drum took me hours with a Snap On puller and lots of sledge hammer hits. Restoring that truck cured my desire to ever do another one.
Removing a AA rear drum took me hours with a Snap On puller and lots of sledge hammer hits. Restoring that truck cured my desire to ever do another one.
mike657894
Well-known member
that shortened AA wheelbase looks pretty close to the A's 103.5"
mike657894
Well-known member
also thats quite the undertaking but by the look of the engine your wiling to go the distance.
mramc1
Member
I had to make some front wheels since the original AA wheels I had were mostly all junk and when the retainer rings get too rusty the wheels are very dangerous. I cut the centers out of the two worst wheels and mated them to some newer 16" Ford Budd wheel hoops.
On the rear I got really lucky and was able to buy a cool set of '30 AA wheels with monster 9.50-20 tires. They will look really cool with the tow rig I'm going to build.
The next problem is that there is something broken in either the worm gear rear or the torque tube. The rear end will only roll a few inches before it locks up. With the rear tires off the ground the tires will turn freely in opposite directions of each other so I know the differential is okay. I also pulled the shifter out of the ****** and the PTO cover off to inspect the gears. Everything looks good in the trans so I'm pulling the rear end out next.
On the rear I got really lucky and was able to buy a cool set of '30 AA wheels with monster 9.50-20 tires. They will look really cool with the tow rig I'm going to build.
The next problem is that there is something broken in either the worm gear rear or the torque tube. The rear end will only roll a few inches before it locks up. With the rear tires off the ground the tires will turn freely in opposite directions of each other so I know the differential is okay. I also pulled the shifter out of the ****** and the PTO cover off to inspect the gears. Everything looks good in the trans so I'm pulling the rear end out next.
Last edited:
mramc1
Member
Got the rearend pulled out to see what was going on. The torque tube and ****** were fine so had to split the rear and see what was up.
Balanced the rear, pulled a hub, and then split the case.
Here is the problem. The rear bearing wouldn't turn.
Oh that's why!
Since this truck isn't going on the road I just derusted the existing bearing and race, greased everything good, and reassembled.
Here's what 87 years of use does to a bronze ring gear.
Back together.
With a fresh coat of paint.
And back into service.
Balanced the rear, pulled a hub, and then split the case.
Here is the problem. The rear bearing wouldn't turn.
Oh that's why!
Since this truck isn't going on the road I just derusted the existing bearing and race, greased everything good, and reassembled.
Here's what 87 years of use does to a bronze ring gear.
Back together.
With a fresh coat of paint.
And back into service.
mramc1
Member
For those that didn't read the start of my build thread let me clarify that I am just restoring this truck to be a big yard toy and it will not be road worthy. That's why I'm not repairing the body and cleaning it up for personal enjoyment.
That being said, it's kind of fun, like a full size model. Assembling parts, painting with a brush, etc. Anyway, I painted the truck last weekend. I applied a quart of Ford Engine green which is close to the original Rock Moss Green. First I edged the windows.
Here it is out in the sun the next day.
The color is a little dark, I might mix some hunter green and midnight blue together to get closer to the rock moss color. Either way it looks a lot better than rust.
Later in the weekend I got most of the chassis painted black.
Next up, finishing the wheels and adding the fenders.
That being said, it's kind of fun, like a full size model. Assembling parts, painting with a brush, etc. Anyway, I painted the truck last weekend. I applied a quart of Ford Engine green which is close to the original Rock Moss Green. First I edged the windows.
Here it is out in the sun the next day.
The color is a little dark, I might mix some hunter green and midnight blue together to get closer to the rock moss color. Either way it looks a lot better than rust.
Later in the weekend I got most of the chassis painted black.
Next up, finishing the wheels and adding the fenders.
mramc1
Member
I'm just building a running piece of yard art. Cleaning the old oil out of the pan, all new gaskets, a rebuilt water pump, carb rebuild, and rebuilt electrical system made it a good enough runner for what I want to do with it.
mramc1
Member
Yes. I haven't painted the hood yet.