Saved Another One: 1928 AA

mramc1

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1929 AA Homemade Tow Truck Build

Lean-to Find!!

I recently pulled this shortened '29 AA out of a dirt floor shed. It was actually sided over in a lean-to shed and had been in there for more than 30 years.

It had a pretty well thought out shortening job and was painted up nice at one point. The original owner passed over 10 yrs ago and he used to use it to plow his driveway.

Here it is just out of the lean-to.

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Homemade plow setup with homemade straight plow and manual pump hydraulic system. Checkout the 1200 lbs. counter weight!

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The cab is actually pretty solid and the wood is all in good shape thanks to a tin roof addition and indoor storage.

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I got it cleaned out and the weight off (heavy!) and am currently freeing everything up in preparation for trying to get it running.

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I doubt it is road worthy....so short I would think it is a bit unstable. However, it looks like a great doodlebug. Is it a AA rear end? My dad's doodlebug had two transmissions and a double-reduction rear end. It was great for clearing snow and would rip tree trunks out of the ground.

Ken
 
That is great. There are AA frames available from people who have taken off the cab to make a pickup, if you want to return it to original equipment. I love those wire wheels on the rear.
 
I doubt it is road worthy....so short I would think it is a bit unstable. However, it looks like a great doodlebug. Is it a AA rear end? My dad's doodlebug had two transmissions and a double-reduction rear end. It was great for clearing snow and would rip tree trunks out of the ground.

Ken


I'm just going to leave it as a doodlebug and just drive it around the yard for fun. I have a shortened box I took off my hot rod '29 A truck that I am going to put on the back of it. The rearend is just a stock worm drive unit. The transmission is a 4 speed with reverse lockout.
 
I have started to tackle getting this truck running. I have pulled the intake and exhaust as well as the valve train cover.

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The motor was stuck, but I slowly got it to turn and have now freed up the two sticking intake valves on cylinders 2 and 3.

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Checkout the nice Autolite heater.

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When I couldn't get much oil to drain out I dropped the pan. The old oil was the consistency of cream hand cleaner. I used kerosene to loosen the old oil up and was able to wash it out good.

I have ordered new gaskets and igniton parts so I am hoping to see if this thing will run again soon.
 
Spent the last week cleaning gunk out of the engine, painting parts, and adding new gaskets. The oil in the pan was so old it was the consistency of DL hand cleaner. Here is the engine all reassembled. I am rewiring the dash and ignition now.

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Looking good. You may have to put fresh gas in it.
Have you done a compression test yet?
 
Great find, I'm impressed with the orange paint job someone took the time to apply at some time, firewall and inside the hood. Bob
 
So I got the engine running. Everything was good, but the #4 cylinder was dead. I pulled the head to see what was going on and I'm glad I did as there were a lot of rust flakes in the coolant passages that I then cleaned out.

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The problem was a tiny amount of rust on the exhaust valve stem that held the valve up off the seat a few thousandths. After filing the rust off the stem I had a good seal and the head went back on

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Engine runs good now. It looks like the engine was rebuilt at some point as there is little to no ridge on the cylinder walls and everything is tight. Time to get some sheet metal back on the front. First I got rid of the clunky homemade plow frame.

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I found a front frame stub at Hershey with good horns.

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So after some fitting and trimming I had good frame horns.

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Now it's time to see how the fenders and braces fit.

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Then a radiator and headlight bar.

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Then the headlights.

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Next up, some wheels and tires.
 
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