Sandblast cabinet question

my cabinet came with this and works great.. this alone costs more than the hf unit lol...
you get what you pay for...
 

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Further update. I found a water separator that I bought 8 years ago, I forgot that I had it. I also put a halogen light in the cabinet for 3-4 hours to dry up the media. The unit came powder coated and with a foam/caulk tape to seal most of the leaks. As I was tightening the machine screws some of the panels flexed a little which jeopardized the seal. I finally did a close up inspection of the cabinet with a light and mirror (it's heck to get old and stiff) and found the places where it was leaking. It was quite easy since I was using Black Blaster and the black residue on the red made it easy to spot. It's not the best cabinet but I'm well satisfied for 26% of the $600 cabinet.
 
This has been very interesting, i have a tp cabinet and my complaint is that i can't see what i am doing after about 10 minutes. Yes it does have an attached vacuum unit but the glass seems to get dusty very fast. Mine does not seem to put dust into the room it is very tight.
 
jhowes said:
This has been very interesting, i have a tp cabinet and my complaint is that i can't see what i am doing after about 10 minutes. Yes it does have an attached vacuum unit but the glass seems to get dusty very fast. Mine does not seem to put dust into the room it is very tight.
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i have the same system what are you using the cheap skat blast abrasive is no good too powdery and dusty also clogs the vacuum filter...i switched to this stuff no dust works great
 

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What the Black Beauty(black blast) people call fine grade is not fine enough for these blasters.It is good for the pressure pots,but for the siphon guns it is too hard to pull up.I have a couple of cabinets that I have to run extra fine in.I can't think of the number right off the top of my head,but it is finer than the 2040 black blast.
 
As for the plastic window plastic which many cabinets use, I cut 3 of the proper size for both the viewing window and the light. My Dayton cabinet is quick to pull out the frosted sheet from the light or window and replace the light, which merely lifts or the window which has 4 wing nuts and washers. Keep in mind there should be a shielded opening on one side of the cabinet to let air in which the vacuum removes.
 
I would only use glass in the cabinet as plastic scratches too easily and gets static electricity which attract the dust. Even with glass and using black beauty, I have to give the inside of the glass a wipe with my glove to clean off the dust.

My Dayton cabinet has a squirrel cage fan to suck the dust into a large cloth bag, and it has a baffle over the cabinet opening so the dust has to enter from the bottom of the opening. The baffle keeps the good media inside the cabinet while collecting only the dust.
 
There are many ways to minimise dust leaching out.

One is to get a 5 gallon drum and lid and have the dust outlet going into the top of it on one side and and the vacuum out of of other top side and have it full of water to near the top.

You do not lose any air flow and the dust hits the water and sinks.

Saves clogging up your vac bag all the time.

 
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Pooch, the water drum works well for sheet rock sanding dust also. I use a wet/dry shop vac with water in it and put the inlet pipe totally under the water so the air/dust has to go through the water and it really cleans it up before hitting the vacuum.
 
I built a blast cabinet out of a fuel oil barrel, and I use the vac. set-up like Mitch. That works great. Also the front window is plexiglass with saran wrap over the inner surface(tightly stretched). This is held in with duct tape. It lasts a long time and wipes off easy and is quick to change. and it was cheap
 
i keep a rod dehumidifier-made for gun safes etc- in my home made cabinet- when not in use-keeps media dry-last forever-very low power drain
 
Duct tape a piece of scotchbrite pad over the dust port on the inside of the cabinet. This acts as a "filter" to screen out some of the coarse material that ends up in the vacuum.
Also, if you hook up a vacuum to the dust port, make sure the air vent on the back wall is open. I accidentally imploded my glass viewing screen the first time I hooked up my vacuum. Not tempered -- instant glass bead :eek:
 
A negative pressure in the cab is a negative pressure, but that is not to say that a direct (or indirect hit) on a gasket or door edge might not push a little bit of abrasive/dust into the room.

Your vacuum does have to have air capacity beyond the capability of the blast nozzle. CFM requirements of different size nozzles can be deceiving - as can the capacity of a vacuum to remove it through the corrugated flex hose, fittings, filter, discharge pipe, etc.

And most vacuums are not rated in SCFM (or even CFM)

Joe K
 
I use a HF sand blast cabinet , with a 5 gal. shop vac on dust port , no dust any where out side of cabinet. also use a water trap right at the cabinet , never a problem
 
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