saginaw steering box in a 39

cuzncletus

cuzncletus

Senior Member
I'm putting an entire Chassis Engineering front end under my 39 incl. dropped axle, disc brakes, and spring. They also recommended a saginaw box to an adapter plate as the newer box was superior to my stock 39. I also have a chance to get an F1 box but don't know if there's much difference between it and the 39. The car seems to drive OK now, but I have only test driven it a short distance and haven't had it out on the highway. I'm not sure the troopers would appreciate it on I-95 with no lights and fenders.

I'd rather do this right the first time, if replacing the box is indeed what's right. Any experience and feedback is appreciated.
 
The F-1 box comes through the frame rail as in earlier Fords and has an arm that hooks to your driver front wheel. Your stock 39 is a cross steer in that the steering arm cuts across to the passenger wheel.

Although I've used a Vega box, the Sag box is also a great improvement. I'm presently putting a Sag-style PS box in my 40 p-up project so the wife can tool around in it but that's a whole different animal.

I would mock things up with your Sag box, w/engine installed as exhaust clearance is usually the major problem, with steering column hookup next, and finally, depending on your engine choice, oil pan clearance as you may need a "dropped arm" off the box for clearance - CE has these arms for the Sag. Just take your time - use broom sticks for your column hookup mockup so you can determine the proper length for them and what universals, if any, you might need. I hooked up my stock 40 column to the Vega box by placing an anchor for the column at the floorboard and a Borgeson joint at the Vega box - has worked great for 6+ years so far. I also had to use the dropped arm mentioned earlier for flattie pan clearance.

Good luck and keep us posted with pics if possible.
 
The best driving 39 I ever drove was the same front suspension as yours with the stock 39 sector. Of course the fellow that owned it was very good at rebuilding stock sectors. Don't know if you could find someone who could around your part of the world. On the other hand I used the saginaw manual box on a 40 tudor and it was fine. I later decided I liked power and switched it for a power version. Just need to decide if you might like power steering.
 
The saginaw is rather large, you may end up having to deal with exhaust issues. Kinda like changing the carpet and then needing to change the drapes... and the furniture....
 
I am using a Saginaw 525 manual box, 8ba, in a 40 frame. The only issue is header clearance. I am working with Red's Headers and just sent back a tack welded header that Jim is going to finish giving me 3/8 inch clearance. If you have this issue I recommend him highly. Pete
 
I have a 525 box in my '39 and it works great. As mentioned, depending on your engine, header clearance could be a problem. I'm using fenderwell headers on mine but, with a small block Chevy, I was told a passenger side manifold from a 67-72 Chevy truck, can be installed on the drivers side. It points forward so you'd have to route the exhaust under the steering box. Hope that is some help.
 
Yes, that does work, I did it on my 46 with a 350 Chev in it. And you can buy them new from GM if need be. I found a used one.
 
Those manifolds were real pricey back in the 80's at swap meets. Not so much now. I bought one for $20 this summer and it is a nice one. Used one on my last 40 tudor, will use this one on the next.
 
Initially I'll use the 59A that's in the car now, later switching to a built 8BA. I've got headers to fit the car. If they aren't too much in the way I'll just cut them up and make them fit. I've made headers before and while it's not rocket science, it is time consuming. Ol' Henry did a great job of designing a block with just three exhaust ports to make header fabrication easier!
 
For the 4.3/5-speed setup on my 40 p-up with Sag PS, I actually cut into the frame to create clearance - I will reinforce the area (nicely so that it looks like a slight bubble or bulge on the frame) to gain back what strength was taken away. Here's a description and a pic of the location and mount.

The Sag PS adapter I ordered was more of a pain and did not place the box properly for my application. So, I decided to modify the original 40 steering box mount to satisfy my needs. I'm using the lower most bolt hole as a starting point and I've welded on a sleeve to encase the one bolt. I've also welded on a piece for the forward most bolt (something I had laying around for a Class III hitch install) and I have its sleeve cut and ready to weld on. For this sleeve and the top-most 3rd one (car Saginaw boxes had only a 3-bolt mount, trucks had 4 - I'll use a car box) I will need to be set the box/mount plate in the frame rail so I know where to weld it. Once that's done I'll weld things up on the mount, and once the engine is out again, I'll weld the mount into the frame with a few gussets, etc, to regain the strength lost in modifying that portion of the frame.
 

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that looks great tom i just found a site that has everything to use a saginaw box ,damper,& inner shfts hollow or solid gear vendors they are called trev :)
 
I used a Saginaw manual box out of a '64 Chevelle in my '38 pickup. Pitman arm splines are the same as the original Ford box, so the Ford pitman arm fits perfectly.
 
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