Saginaw 525 in a 36
- Thread starter 34fordy
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cadillac512
Well-known member
In my '41 Merc I used the slower ratio 525...24:1? Used the short shaft version. I had the 16:1 box in it previously and changed it for a family member with less arm strength, and surprisingly I like it better as well. Feels "right". I modified the stock mount (bit of a job!) and shortened the column,added a bearing to the bottom,and welded a coupler to the shaft to attach to the box. Heated and rebent the '41 pitman arm to keep the drag link level.
convert 40
Member
Re: Saginaw 525 in a 1950 Oldsmobile
I measured the 525 box up to my 50 Oldsmobile.
Two of the bolts Lined right up. I had to heat & pound in the curve in the frame
Slightly (the diameter of the new box is slightly Greater) I drilled the third hole
in the frame, Welded a round tube through the frame for strength, bolted the box down & the 50 pitman arm bolted right on. Instant power steering.
Rick Napa, Ca.
I measured the 525 box up to my 50 Oldsmobile.
Two of the bolts Lined right up. I had to heat & pound in the curve in the frame
Slightly (the diameter of the new box is slightly Greater) I drilled the third hole
in the frame, Welded a round tube through the frame for strength, bolted the box down & the 50 pitman arm bolted right on. Instant power steering.
Rick Napa, Ca.
tubman
Well-known member
Re: Saginaw 525 in a 1950 Oldsmobile
This is very interesting to me as I would like to add PS to my '51. Anyone have any knowledge about how one of these would fit a shoebox? With the double belt system on these cars, I think I could handle the pump and brackets if I could find a box that was an easy fit.
Forgive my lack of knowledge, but I haven't needed PS until now, so I'm just getting started. I just realized I haven't driven my car much this summer because of this.
This is very interesting to me as I would like to add PS to my '51. Anyone have any knowledge about how one of these would fit a shoebox? With the double belt system on these cars, I think I could handle the pump and brackets if I could find a box that was an easy fit.
Forgive my lack of knowledge, but I haven't needed PS until now, so I'm just getting started. I just realized I haven't driven my car much this summer because of this.
34fordy
Well-known member
Thanx--I have ordered the box, adapter plate, and joint. I need to find a bearing to support the shaft near the bottom of the column tube. I am thinking that the column tube might need some support as it will not attach to the new steering box. ??
Absolutely use the 24-1 box. I have the quicker ratio 525 in my 40 and after you get moving it's alright but parallel parking is tough. Also I have a 16 inch steering wheel for better leverage. I changed to the Pete & Jake's bolt in steering mount. Took 2 u joints butted together to make the connection. Had I used the long input shaft version I could have done it with one.
TJ
Well-known member
Ace Hardware should have a wheel barrow bearing that is a perfect fit and they also have a "split collar" that will hold it in place. Used the same set up on my '40. If you are using the stock column I also recommend removing the old original bushing at the top and replacing it with a later Ford bearing and collar that is carried by most early Ford parts people.
34fordy
Well-known member
Thanx Krylon. I am curious why the need for two u joints? Was the original shaft too short? Coop had sent me a picture this spring and only 1 u joint was used.
cadillac512
Well-known member
If you put a bearing in the lower tube and have a solid coupler to the input of the 525 box it makes the whole system solid and no extra support is needed. The shaft with bearing in the tube is rigid enough. Be careful to set your lower steering wheel to upper column gap before welding stuff-don't want a big gap or have the wheel rubbing the column.
2 joints were needed because of the short shaft box and the length of the new column shift column. The column worked out perfect with the lower shift lever clearing the the motor and firewall just right. The joints are splined on each end with short piece of DD in the middle. The joints butt together. If I knew what i know now I'd have made sure I bought the long input shaft 24-1 box. I've driven it his way for 4 years with no problem but this winter it may be ready for a change?
TJ
Well-known member
Double post
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TJ
Well-known member
Yes I anchored the bottom, I used a piece of flat steel and cut a hole in it to fit the column tube. I then split the piece in half and welded the bottom part of a 1- 1/2" muffler clamp to the half of steel plate. I then drilled holes in the outer edge of the plate and used bolts(1/4 ") and T-nuts to secure the plate to the wood floor boards and up against the column tube. Install the muffler clamp U-bolt and you are done. Your carpet or floormat will cover it. I just felt the need to anchor the bottom.
rich b
Well-known member
I used a long shaft 525 that I pulled out of a Nova, Pete& Jakes mount (holds box closer to the rail than the adapter plate), and a '36 column connected with one joint.
Spline x 3/4" smooth bore joint, shaft collar to control end play, wheel barrow bearing, and Ford clamp on the bottom.
Flat plate welded to the column tube and bolted to the floor where it passes thru.
F-1 upper bearing, Mustang cone, and spring at the top.
Horn wire thru the shaft and out the side of the tube with a copper bushing and Jeep brush.
Spline x 3/4" smooth bore joint, shaft collar to control end play, wheel barrow bearing, and Ford clamp on the bottom.
Flat plate welded to the column tube and bolted to the floor where it passes thru.
F-1 upper bearing, Mustang cone, and spring at the top.
Horn wire thru the shaft and out the side of the tube with a copper bushing and Jeep brush.
