Sagging rear end

47topless

47topless

Well-known member
My 31 Victoria seems to sit a little low in the rear and will bottom out on bumps in the road. It has new shocks, so I don't think that is the problem. I am guessing the 100-year-old spring is worn out. Can these springs be "reshaped" by a good shop or do I need to invest in a new spring?
Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Phil
 
count the number of leafs in the spring pack to make sure the correct amount are there. then also maybe there is a broken one.
i have had springs re-arched with pretty good success.
the big thing is you need to be real careful when taking the spring out and apart. find a spreader.
 
Yes the springs can be re-arched. If you are adventuresome you can try doing it yourself. I’ll look for a write up I have somewhere. But from your description I’d be inclined to think maybe you have some broken leaves or perhaps excessively worn or broken shackles.

But the more usual wear point is the shackle, specifically the axle housing. I’ve seen many shackle bushings worn completely through and into the axle housing.

Regardless, you are going to have to pull the spring off the differential. If the bushings are worn but axle housings ok, simply replace the bushings and shackles. But you might want to go ahead and disassemble the spring and make your decision at that point whether to rebuild the spring or replace with new, there are other threads on rebuilding and cold-arching springs so I won’t go there.
 
47;

If you're up for it cruise over to the H.A.M.B. and search. There are several threads over there explaining and showing rearching of springs. There are probably as many ways to accomplish this as there are people performing it. Many of them are shown there.
 
If the springs are original or at least from an old rebuild, I have to wonder about the degree of metal fatigue, particularly at the stress points. JayJay and others have far more experience in this area than I would ever desire, but as an engineer, I can tell you metal fatigue is a real thing and all the re-arching may not accomplish your desired results. New springs will cost more but you will likely never have to deal with them again in your lifetime.
 
This document is the one I used when I cold arched my front and rear springs (after replacing the three broken leaves in the front). The front was much easier to do than the rear. When I reassmbled I ground bevels on the undersides of the leaves to preclude gouging, I ground out the gouges that were already in the leaves, and painted the rubbing surfaces of each leaf with Slip-Plate graphite paint.

I have not reinstalled them yet as I'm still at the bare chassis stage in my restoration.
 
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IMG_2557.JPG
This photo shows the stance of my Vickie. the rear tire fills the fender well. It looks too low to me.
 
You could look to see whether the shackles are resting on the differential housing, that would point to a breakdown somewhere in the rear suspension. Also, do you have a lot of weight under or behind the rear seat? Like a jack, heavy toolbox, keg of beer,…

Nice looking car. Nice looking Corvette in the garage, too.
 
Quick look under the rear seat for gold bars ! Or maybe lead bars colored gold ! Count the number of leaves in the spring pack as stated by OU in post #2 , you should have 10 leaves . Nice A !!!
 
There is a drawing which shows the springs "disassembled" - to include the form of the "caul" used as a guide to pre-tensioning each leaf.

Somewhere I have the front drawing - sourced from a board participant whose name escapes me.

I expect he will have the rear spring drawing - if you can determine the actual 10 leaf spring you have (I believe there are three variants.)

The caul is nice if you make it up out of 3/4" pine - you use it only as a guide for bending - not in actual bending.

Most front springs I have disassembled (I can speak on informatively) in no way shape or form match the caul - which shows you how much "settling" occurs given time and drivers and passengers of avoirdupois.

Joe K
 
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