Safe water temperature

[Jim/GA]

I would check the points!! The last time that I had an overheating problem, one hundred and ninety degrees, We checked and found that the points gap had closed and only had a gap of .010 or less. As the fiber block on the points wears down, the gap closes and retards the timing.

I agree.

I think this is why Ford made the timing lever advance the timing up to 20 distributor degrees, which is 40 crank degrees. That is a lot of advance when points are set right and timing is at TDC with the spark lever up. But as points wear and you start losing advance, you can make up for it with the spark lever.

 

[steve s]

I'm running the same set up, minus the thermostat and i'm running 185* in 105 degrees weather, going 55 mph. That was also with the car loaded down with about 800 pounds of materials and parts a couple weeks ago on a 700 mile trip. I'm going to change to a thicker oil. I currently have 5w-30, but everyone else around here seems to run straight 40 or 50 weight, so i'll try that instead and see if it helps lower the temp any.

Jordan,

I agree with Jim/TX that more viscous oil will not run cooler; in fact, the increased viscous friction will make it run warmer, if anything, and maybe a bit quieter. The manual says to use 40 wt in the summer, but maybe recently rebuilt motors have closer tolerances that need thinner oil.

Theoretically, I think the motor is better off running at 185 than 160, but I'm too chicken to use that high of a thermostat.

What gnaws in the back of my mind is that the only logical explanation for my (our?) situation is that the Brassworks radiatior is really not doing its job. I know a lot of guys whose cars run right at 160 with the 160 stat.

Steve

 

[Christoph]

My engine went hot back in time and i built in a new radiator TODAY .
Should have done that long time ago .....
Dont check the other things as long as your radiator is old!!!!!

best regards
Christoph

 

[Jim/GA]

Steve-
I don't think it has to be a problem with the radiator, if the radiator is fairly new. I think it is variations in condition of the engine. So many things have happened to these engines in the past 80 years. They have been bored out, sleeved, they've had rust and scale build up in the cooling jacket, people drove them for years with no anti-rust protection, the metal between cylinder and cooling jacket was rusted away and is now thinner on some engines than others.

All this combined means some engines are going to run hotter than others, regardless of the quality of the radiator. Which explains why some guys say they run all day ay 160 and others say they run hotter. As long as you are not boiling the coolant, it does not matter.

Many people say that their A radiator seeks it's own level and then stops losing water. Other report continuous loss due to boiling. If you are boiling the coolant out, then you need to add coolant often to replace it. Or if it gets really bad, replace the engine.

I think that the vast variation between all these engines, due to their history, is what makes it hard to figure out what's going on with them. What works on one engine (like grind the impellers fins off a bit) does not work on another.

 

[John Duden]

try cleanin the whole cooling system, there might be stuff baked on the cylinder head or water jackets
John

 

[steve s]

Steve-
I don't think it has to be a problem with the radiator, if the radiator is fairly new. I think it is variations in condition of the engine. So many things have happened to these engines in the past 80 years. They have been bored out, sleeved, they've had rust and scale build up in the cooling jacket, people drove them for years with no anti-rust protection, the metal between cylinder and cooling jacket was rusted away and is now thinner on some engines than others.

All this combined means some engines are going to run hotter than others, regardless of the quality of the radiator. Which explains why some guys say they run all day ay 160 and others say they run hotter. As long as you are not boiling the coolant, it does not matter.

Many people say that their A radiator seeks it's own level and then stops losing water. Other report continuous loss due to boiling. If you are boiling the coolant out, then you need to add coolant often to replace it. Or if it gets really bad, replace the engine.

I think that the vast variation between all these engines, due to their history, is what makes it hard to figure out what's going on with them. What works on one engine (like grind the impellers fins off a bit) does not work on another.

Jim,
Thanks for your thoughts. What you say makes sense, but I don't know.

My Brassworks radiator is brand new. I didn't have my temperature gauge with the old one, so I don't know whether the radiator changed anything. I run antifreeze, don't overly overheat, and don't lose much coolant.

The block has been rebuilt professionally twice since I've had it. I know that the first guy, Dick McKee, thorougly cleaned his blocks, and I assume the second guy, Antique Engine Rebuilders, are also conscientious in this regard. So, I believe the block is pretty clean inside. It's bored out 0.100; no sleeves.

Steve

 

[Jim/GA]

Steve-
Is your engine running 185* when you are running at a steady 35 or 40 MPH down a level road? Or is this what you see at a traffic signal or some other point where you stop and wait?

I was reading an original Model A Owner's Manual last week and in the "overheating" section they mention running with the mixture too rich as a possible cause. That was counter intuitive to me. But what the heck, try leaning it out at the GAV and see what it does...

If you do not lose coolant, I'd say just drive it.