Safe method to remove pitman arm from control valve?

R

rjlester

Senior Member
I just picked up a 1954 parts car with power steering. Plan is to remove all the PS stuff and put it all in my own 1954 Meteor car. (Canadian Ford)

I'm wondering what the best method is to remove the Pitman arm from the Control arm stud? I have the nut removed, but I can tell a pickle fork is a bad idea.

I have a puller almost identical to this one in the below link, will that work? Seems like a tight fit and I will have to hammer it on. Don't want to mess up the control valve.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht723-ball-joint-remover/
 
If that style is too large, here is another style -

- !!! JUST SAY NO TO PICKLE FORKS !!! -​
 

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I used one like that on my 56 Bird. Worked good


]UOTE=rjlester;2272307]I just picked up a 1954 parts car with power steering. Plan is to remove all the PS stuff and put it all in my own 1954 Meteor car. (Canadian Ford)

I'm wondering what the best method is to remove the Pitman arm from the Control arm stud? I have the nut removed, but I can tell a pickle fork is a bad idea.

I have a puller almost identical to this one in the below link, will that work? Seems like a tight fit and I will have to hammer it on. Don't want to mess up the control valve.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht723-ball-joint-remover/[/QUOTE]
 
A impact gun helps too. I like to turn the air down a bit and bump the trigger. If need be increase air 5 to 10 lobs at a time
 
Gene F said:
A impact gun helps too. I like to turn the air down a bit and bump the trigger. If need be increase air 5 to 10 lobs at a time
Click to expand...

Good tip, I actually did this with the tool I had. It didn't pop, but the cordless impact stopped turning. I walked a few feet away and POP, it came off!

Pretty much the same experience with the outer tie rods, built up the tension and they eventually popped on their own.

Next I made my own tie rods so we can steer the car when we push it to the "back 40" so to speak. Cut some small square tube and drilled holes for bolts. Looks hokey, but it works!

Thanks for the tips guys, it gave me the confidence to go out there and give it a go.

Now to clean up/restore all those PS parts. Pump/control valve/ram/hoses. I'm looking forward to it!

One more question, is the pitman arm the same for PS and Manual steering? I hope so...
 
One more question, is the pitman arm the same for PS and Manual steering? I hope so...
Click to expand...

According to FORD, the 54 thru 56 uses the same arm, M/S or P/S -
 

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  • Screenshot 2023-11-27 at 00-01-21 MPC _2 - FORD TXT 49-59.pdf.jpg
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Seems I shot my mouth off again without knowing the facts ...

The initial 1949 Meteor was introduced on June 25, 1948, at the same time the Ford Deluxe and Custom series were introduced across North America, and shared the new postwar full-sized Ford bodies, chassis, and power-trains but with unique trim. It used a Mercury grille and was powered by a 100 bhp (75 kW), 239 CID flathead V8 similar to that used in 1946–1953 U.S. Ford passenger cars.

Meteor, as well as the Canadian Ford, kept the flathead V8 engine through 1954. The new OHV V8 which US Fords offered beginning in 1954 was not introduced in Canada until the 1955 model year.
Click to expand...

SOURCE - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meteor_(automobile)

So ...

If the 1954 METEOR retained the flathead, most likely it kept the 1953 frame which would have included the suspension/steering of the 1953 FORD (US).

We need a CANADIAN MPC.

Glad you caught that before calling me to the PEACE BRIDGE where you would have brought merciless shame to my frail body ... :(
 
LOLOL it's all good man, Peace Bridge that's hilarious.

I hope I have an extra pitman arm in my parts stash, but I don't think so. Ill just have to have both cars in the garage when I do the swap.
 
The only '54 Meteor I've seen had a 255 Merc flathead and a trunnion suspension, not ball joints like a '54 Ford. So, the linkage maybe different
 
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