Sad day

WTSHNN said:
I'm curious as to why your suspicions are pointing you towards the short behind the dash?
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Hey John,
Good question.
IMO and experience, Art is most likely correct in his assumption as to the starting place for the spark/grounding situation....it takes a spark/grounding.
That's where that FORD connector box connections are located and where the most probable / likely place for fault elect to ground occurs. IMO, this HOT ALL THE TIME(BOMB) ford simplistic device was responsible for many fire disasters than most others combined !
I tried and hopefully succeeded in trying to super insolate that box from causing faulty ground. The way all the wires are crammed into that small space, then add in add on wiring (for some), throw in vibrations from shaking body and maybe cloth covered wiring (original/'restored'). Add to all this, the location/juxtaposition to gas tank leaks/fumes..voila/boom:eek: !

Any and all safety devices and equipment add-ons are prudent, IMO, to mitigate such tragic results as fire. You car, do what you want, eh.

Knowing what I know of that connection box, if I were an insurance company, I wouldn't insure a car with such a known hazard as that connection box design. I know let the pissing contest begin :rolleyes:
 
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Don't let it go to scrap. There are plenty of parts there that could save others. Heck, I'd be interested in buying it from the ins. co. to save my own project.
 
I replaced my ammeter last week. When I pulled back the instrument panel to access the wiring, I found that both terminals were extremely loose. It was surprising that the car still ran. This could have resulted in a similar problem.
When the new ammeter was installed, I took precautions (using wire sleeves) to ensure that if the terminals did come loose, the wires would be insulated well enough that they would not ground out. I also added new split lock washers and made sure everything was very tight.
 
wk2w said:
I replaced my ammeter last week. When I pulled back the instrument panel to access the wiring, I found that both terminals were extremely loose. It was surprising that the car still ran. This could have resulted in a similar problem.
When the new ammeter was installed, I took precautions (using wire sleeves) to ensure that if the terminals did come loose, the wires would be insulated well enough that they would not ground out. I also added new split lock washers and made sure everything was very tight.
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could be when you pulled it back you loosened wires inside the junction box.
 
HELP!! So that I do not have this problem, How are where should I install the Cut off switch? Please?

Thanks!!
 
Very heartbreaking and hard to see those photos.

Larry put a fuse in the first winter he had Sarah, I see now why he did it.

Very sorry for your loss.
 
JohnB15632 said:
HELP!! So that I do not have this problem, How are where should I install the Cut off switch? Please?

Thanks!!
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On your battery ground wire. My handle comes up thru the floor in front of the seat so I can get to it quickly if needed.
 
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HELP Where and how do I install a Master Cut Off Switch? Help Please? I do not want this to happen to me.
 
JohnB15632 said:
HELP Where and how do I install a Master Cut Off Switch? Help Please? I do not want this to happen to me.
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Do a search its been gone over here 1001 times,, maybe even 1002
From whats the best switch to the best mounting locations, along with which batt wire to install it in..
 
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I also am very sorry to see this and thank god nobody was injured... hopefully you have enough agreed value to cover all the money you had into her Incld all your labor..
Collect your money and move on as fire damaged cars are the worse to get involved in..
I had a couple customers leave the key on which in turn fries the dash wires along with o/heating or blowing out the coil. I always mention here when i read about someone leaving the key on and the points were closed to also pull back the dash and ck the wiring...

It's definitely. A learning experience for many here so thanks for posting this... you may have saved someone's life, house or car....
Here is the link to a thread from when the key was left on, if others missed it
http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198484&highlight=caught+fire
 
I've had to deal with a couple of totals in my day, I was given first opportunity to purchase the cars before the insurance company took them.
 
Artimus, post #1: I see that you are from Grants Pass - just 3.5 hours away from me, here in Eureka !

Aritmus, I know that the Rogue River Model A club is nearby, BUT - whenever you want to get to the Victorian Seaport of Eureka and touch and fondle Giant Redwood trees and rugged coastlines of the Pacific Ocean, be advised that I have two Model A's here for you to also touch, fondle, and ride in.

And I also offer FREE housing and vittles while you are in the area !:)
 
With all of my cars, I keep the salvage in the event of a total loss. That is the norm over here. The insurance company doesn't get to lay a hand on the car after it is assessed. Nearly 20 years ago, I lost my workshop, cars and nearly my wife in a fire. The insurance payout was prompt and the cars stayed right where they were. I couldn't bring myself to re restore what I had already done once so I sold off the wrecks. In this case, the photos show a car well worthy of restoration again.
Hope the owner get satisfaction with the insurance company and he ends up with another car soon - WITH A CUTOUT SWITCH!
I don't understand the American system of cars having a title but I do know one is required before a car can be sent out of the country. I'd put my hand up for the salvage if it could be done.
 
I wonder how many people remember Artimus Gordon in the TV series Wild Wild West. Ross Martin played Artimus Gordon and was pretty cool. How did you come to use ArtimusGordon as your user ID? Sorry about your coupe.
Rusty Nelson
 
I have 4 Model As a '29 coupe, '29 CCPU, a 30 AA SB and a '31 AA LB, all have both the safety fuse and a battery shut off switch. I park them in a garage with six other vehicles and I do everything I can so that a electrical fire will not happen. If there was an easy way to disconnect the battery on the modern vehicles I'd do that also. All the wires on the As have been replaced with reproductions, after I noticed that the 85 yr old wires were not in the best of shape. I have insurance on everything to cover value, but that value does not include the many 100s of hours that I have put into them, and at my age I don't have the energy to do them again. They are all drivers and not fine point judging vehicles so exact originality is not a issue with me(in relation to the safety fuse and shut off switch). I also shut off the fuel valve when I park my As and disconnect the battery via the switch, even if they will be left for only a few minutes. My dad use to say an "ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" This is how I do it, your mileage may vary
 
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