Sacrificial anode attachment.......

sidevalve8ba

Well-known member
I have one of these sacrificial anodes that I would like to make use of to perhaps "save" my aluminum cylinder heads. Anyone got any tips on choice spots to locate one of these in the cooling system? That one piece of wire looks a bit fragile to me.
 
I haven't used this but I would think a good place would be in a open/extra port where the tempature sensor goes. There is hopefully one capped off with a bolt.

I have a boat and the plug size looks to be about the same as the zinc I use there.
 
You wouldn't be asking the question if the anode came with instructions so I'm thinking that it has to be attached to the radiator cap some how. On my '34, I'm thinking about installing an anode something like the one pictured below into the water pump orifice where the temp. sensor would normally go....
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You wouldn't be asking the question if the anode came with instructions so I'm think that it has to be attached to the radiator cap some how. On my '34, I'm thinking about installing an anode something like the one pictured below into the water pump orifice where the temp. sensor would normally go....
2

Yes that's the type used on boats. Also I don't think the type of antifreeze you use matters. It has to do with the two diffrent metals with liquid. Boats sit in both fresh and salt water and you need zinc.

Mho
 
Yes that's the type used on boats. Also I don't think the type of antifreeze you use matters. It has to do with the two diffrent metals with liquid. Boats sit in both fresh and salt water and you need zinc.

Mho

Thats exactly the type of anode I use I place them in the block drain holes or the pipe thread hole in a water pump.
 
I have one of these sacrificial anodes that I would like to make use of to perhaps "save" my aluminum cylinder heads. Anyone got any tips on choice spots to locate one of these in the cooling system? That one piece of wire looks a bit fragile to me.
It's meant to go into one or both of the upper radiator hoses.
 

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You can also use a Rad Cap which has the anode attached by a spring with a plastic cup which holds the anode. Those caps are about $15. I have them in my cars. regardless of the type of coolant it's amazing how the electrolysis attacks the anode. Coolant will not totally protect an engine the has different metals attached.
 
Hi Ronnie, What would you use as correct coolant? Thank you , Rog

What do you have in your daily driver? Any oem or aftermarket antifreeze that has an oem endorsement.Usually written on the label.
Prestone lo tox,Peak,Honda and many more would be a good choice.
You would be hard pressed today to not have a car that wasn't a cast iron block with aluminum heads.Has been that way for the last 40+ years.There are millions running around without an anode in them.Aluminum heads on a flatty aren't something new special.Don't overthink this anode idea. "LOL" My2¢

R
 
I think the anodes are a good idea. They are inexpensive and there is no down side. Maybe it's belt and suspenders but it is zero risk and has potential benefits.
 
Ronnie, you are hereby appointed as Official Engine Disassembly Man for Flathead Fords having aluminum heads.
 
51MERC-CT: Would that anode also work if it was suspended inside the radiator top tank
from the radiator cap? Would it also work if it was suspended from a nylon cord instead of a piece of metal?
 
Ronnie, you are hereby appointed as Official Engine Disassembly Man for Flathead Fords having aluminum heads.


OMG Wtf is that about!!

Anodes and disassembly???

Those old dogs never had any good antifreeze in them that is the problem.

Anodes wouldn't help that at all.

State your case"LOL"


R
 
Kearney Pattern and foundry made my correct '33 heads. They would sell their heads to me only if I used a composite head gasket. citing electrolysis. A metal gasket promotes deterioration of the metals Call 'em and ask them some questions. 408-2937414
 
It never hurts to use one but I agree that if the coolant is maintained properly, you should never need one. Electrolysis only sets in when the ph becomes acidic. I always test with a volt meter. I haven't read any industry standard for years but heard once anything near .250 volts and you should do a flush and refill. I never let an engine with aluminum get that far, .150 volt at most. Test by tester neg to ground and pos immersed in the coolant.
 
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