rustoleum gloss black spray cans

W

wbs

Senior Member
hello- having problems-the can directions say use 10 to 16'' from target but even at 10'' i cant get a gloss and if i go closer , i get the glossy finish but also runs. if i move further than 10'' i get a rough finish.

this is to repair dents - i don't want to take it to a body shop.

1. is there any spray product better than rustoleum? is it compatible with rustoleum under coat?

2. when does the rustolreum enamel get hard enough to sand the runs out? after sanding the uncured paint, when can i repaint the sanded runs?

3. is there any way to just paint the 2'' area of the run rather thsn the whole panel? i ve tried that in the past and the center is glossy but there is a ring of rough over spray.

4.if i'm told that number 3 above can't be done and i have to repaint whole panel , do i have to reprime it? has anyone tried repainting without roughing up the gloss with sandpaper?

thankyou
 
I've never tried to use exact measurements of how far that I held a spray can or even a paint gun from what I painted. You need to shake the can well and find something to practice on to se what works best for you. Most distance instructions are just general guidelines and don't have to be followed to an exact measurement.

1 I like Krylon, It dries quicker and you are less likely to get runs as bad as you will with Rustoleum .There shouldn't be a problem spraying over Rustoleum under coats. No spray can paint is going to look as good or hold up as well as a professional body shop job . Spray can finishes are the cheap way and it is best to first test on a practice panel to be sure what lifts and what doesn't in regard to different brands of undercoats.

2 I would wait untill the next day to try sanding out runs in Rustoleum . For best results I would water sand . I wouldn't try repainting over uncured Rustoleum. If you want to do a quick job that will look more professional, I would use spray can lacquer in whatever brand that I could find . It dries quick and runs can be sanded out as soon as it dries. Fine rubbing compound can be used with lacquer to help smooth out dry or rough spots.

3 When enamel is used you will need to paint the whole panel .

4 Priming will mostly be needed on bare metal. A small cut through can usually got by without primer. You don't wast a heavy build up or you can get wrinkles and cracks later. Its best to sand lightly before recoating with fine grit sandpaper.
 
Paint is a series of sanding. Rough sand, filler sanding, color sanding. Each require a certain grid. Try wet sanding with 1000 grit up to 2000. Maybe,
 
Rustoleum automotive paint can be wet sanded.I would try paint niber or
razor to remove a run then color wet sand that area.I would wait maybe
like 6 weeks for paint to cure it seams to cure slow.
 
I've had extremely good luck with John Deere spray paint. It's a Valspar product and seems to cure well. In fact, I painted my entire Tudor with less than a case of gloss black when my wife asked if I could make the car "shiny" for our wedding photos. While it isn't a show car by any means, it is a presentable enough driver that looks good in pictures.
 

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B.SUTTON said:
I've had extremely good luck with John Deere spray paint. It's a Valspar product and seems to cure well. In fact, I painted my entire Tudor with less than a case of gloss black when my wife asked if I could make the car "shiny" for our wedding photos. While it isn't a show car by any means, it is a presentable enough driver that looks good in pictures.
Click to expand...

I am painting my early 28 AA truck with john deere gloss black paint! We are at about 6 quarts and still have to paint the doors and fendrs. We layered it on so we can sand out the orange peel and buff it out for pin striping.
Joh
 
I use rustoleum industrial strength stuff (usually tall silver can). its best to paint the entire part at once and use multiple light coats and let it get tacky between coats. I used it on modern vehicle rims and its going on 4 years and still glossy. It sits outside all year round. Granted its lost some of its shine but usually a quick wipe with a detail wax brings a shine to em. Id imagine if they were out of the sun most of the time they would stay glossy for a very long time.

now it is hard if not impossible to paint glossy surfaces in just one spot and avoiding that "halo" effect...flat paints dont do this
 
You can spray oil based rustoleum out of a quart or gallon cut with acetone 15 up to 50% acetone. To thin it out
With a hvlp sprayer, bottom feed or gravity feed. If you prep the panels you will be amazed how it comes out. Will tack up in 20 minutes and be able to handle it in an hour or two
 
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Try your local auto paint store and look for Nason or SEM rattle cans. Both are good but SEM is the better of the two.
 
thanks to all- all of responses taught me a lot-i'm going to follow the suggestions-------when using razor blade to remove runs, do you slice off the high spot in one step or hold the blade perpendicular to the run and scrape back and forth slowly removing the run?
 
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If you use a single edge razor blade, you can wrap masking tape around each out side edge and leave the middle open to do the "shaving down" of the run. The more wraps of the tape, the less deep the cut. Multiple thin coats of the spray can paint is necessary and make sure the part being painted is not cold or the paint will hit and run. It takes more coats of spray can paint than spray gun paint to get a good gloss.
 
I don't think it was mentioned in any of the above posts but the temperature of the can and temp of where you are painting has a lot to do with how the paint flows and atomizes.
 
Buy a harbor freight spray gun for $9.95,a quart of rustoleum,and I think acetone is the thinner they reccomend,try it on scrap metal until you get the right mixture and it should come out glossy
 
Just as an aside to this topic, but of some interest. I had to paint the motor on my airplane, which is actually a VW Beetle motor. It has magnesium, aluminum and steel parts. It was suggested by the engine builder to use regular enamel paint (such as any cheap pint can or rustoleum) and get this..... thin 50 % with GASOLINE and brush on.

I was very dubious but I decided to try it, in a well ventilated area of course! It works terrific AND it is super, super shiny after about the third quick coat. It smoothed out perfectly and after the gasoline flashed off, it was dry in no time at all. The beauty of using the gasoline mix on an engine already built, is that it bites into any oils left on the surface. Any runs can be brushed out easily. The paint hasn't peeled, seems to hold up well to the heat, and is still extremely shiny. Just wanted to pass this along.

I plan to touchup paint my Model A engine this winter in this manner.
 
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