Rusted block, repairable?

Jack Shaft said:
ASYA73K.jpg


this is rusty :).Im actually going to try and save it. B blocks have varying casting thicknesses,they are way more prone to cracking and machining issues than an A block.Some B blocks are thick in the valve seat and pocket area,some are thin.I have one with 21 crack pins in the deck..step into the machine shop lightly,magnaflux and sonic test prior to committing to it
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Good luck to save it, i found an other rusted block for cheap and everything was seized. After two weeks in the electrolysis bath i was able to move the camshaft a little bit but i broke the block trying to unseized the tappets. It is thin at this place.:(
 
Thanks,got two 8BA'S and two 59AB'S cheap..Ive got time on this one,if I can't save the block no big deal.

Like flathead V8's, B engines are good if you get a good one. In my opinion A blocks are way better,Ford had a low casting rejection rate with the A block (96% casting rejection rate in '32 with the V8,it would have ran anyone else broke). Find a late 31 A block,they are the best,build with confidence, odds are you won't get hurt by a crack.
 
The worst is i trade this corroded B block for a working A engine. The smart guy event put grease on the camshaft so i will not see it was pitted.:mad: I have some A blocks and many parts to build a good one anyway. Regards.
 
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Finally i buy a diamond B block from a barn find BB truck.
A bird nest in the exhaust manifold, squirrel nuts in the water pump but no cracks on the block. Pistons are nominal size, need oversize pistons and fresh cut of the valve seat and after ready to go. Not cheap but at least this one have a counterbalance crankshaft.
Regards.
 
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