Rust Remover Pasivation

A

AlfinCT

Member
After yiu use Evapo-Rust , el;ectrolysis or other methods to strip rust how do you passivate the surface without paintin or priming to keep it from rerusting while you work on the piece. Thanks.
 
A light coat of ATF works well. Easily removed with Prepsol or simular metel cleaner later before painting. Rod
 
phosphoric acid solution will keep your cleaned metal from flash rusting . I have sandblasted parts hanging in dry storage that I treated for a couple of years that look great . Just waiting on me to finish body work .
 
Electrolysis removes rust temporarily and the parts will flash rust if not protected. Phosphoric acid changes iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate an inert substance. Usually a primer is not needed. Can't speak for Evaporust.
 
Wow
Wish I knew what passivate meant! :-)
Wd-40 works for awhile. Then I scrub down with comet and water when ready to paint/prime. Can also use thinner and wipe down
Then prime immediately when dry
 
Passivate: Sounds like a term heard very often and used to inform people that when they get a tax increase, they will be able to afford eating out every night, and be able put more money in their savings accounts.
 
Try OSPHO, I have had sandblasted fenders hold rust free for a year in the garage after an application of OSPHO.
 
Wiki sez:
As a technique, passivation is the use of a light coat of a protective material, such as metal oxide, to create a shell against corrosion. Passivation can occur only in certain conditions, and is used in microelectronics to enhance silicon.
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forever4 said:
My experience with both evaporust and electrolysis (carbon Anode) is that no after treatment is needed or beneficial. After a hot water rinse and dry, the parts will not rerust unless later exposed to water or high humidity. I leave them be until ready for paint.

I also do not like using ospho generally.
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That might work in Arizona, but I can guarantee that here in New England, or anywhere on the coast you will get rust (unless you have climate controlled storage). My new steel fenders (stored inside) started showing flash rust within one month. I used OSPHO and a scotch bright pad to completely remove it before epoxy priming both of them. NOW they are safe for any amount of storage.
 
H. L. Chauvin said:
Passivate: Sounds like a term heard very often and used to inform people that when they get a tax increase, they will be able to afford eating out every night, and be able put more money in their savings accounts.
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As in a longer wrench provides enough purchase to turn a tight bolt? :)
 
I was also specifically referring to parts which have undergone electrolysis or evaporust, not new sheet metal or sandblasted items, for example.


Well that may be possible. Evaporust leaves a dark grey coating that seems to be pretty inert. However if in your effort to get a very clean part, you have scrubbed some of it away, rust will move right in! Your safest path is to epoxy prime all bare metal. Then you can relax and take your time! :D
 
Dennis Pereira said:
phosphoric acid solution will keep your cleaned metal from flash rusting . I have sandblasted parts hanging in dry storage that I treated for a couple of years that look great . Just waiting on me to finish body work .
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I've got some parts like this but I'm unsure whether it is a good idea to use epoxy paint over it?
 
Dennis Pereira said:
phosphoric acid solution will keep your cleaned metal from flash rusting . I have sandblasted parts hanging in dry storage that I treated for a couple of years that look great . Just waiting on me to finish body work .
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J Franklin said:
Try OSPHO, I have had sandblasted fenders hold rust free for a year in the garage after an application of OSPHO.
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It's held back the rust for several years in the humid Florida.
 
I use oxalic acid to remove rust,then rinse,scrub,rinse,dry. If I don't prime the part then I put a coat of cosmoline on it.
 
I cleaned Minervas' Zenith in T.S.P, old paint fell off, BUT after rinsing it, that sucker rusted in my hand! Dunked it & rinsed it 3 times, SAME thing!!
Dried it off, sprayed it with Rustoleum, in the oven @ 200 degrees & it looked SUPERB !
The carb ended up on Jack Scotts' pickup, he passed away, the truck was sold & the carb paint still looked GOOD.
Bill W.
 
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Plus 1 for phosphoric acid. Spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes then wipe dry with a paper towel. When you're ready to paint, scuff with scotchbrite pad, wipe down with prep-sol and fire away.
 
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