Rust removal

In my case at least, I had acquired an engine that ran great and had good compression and oil pressure. I didn't think tearing it down and rebuilding it made sense. I did however, want it to run cool, thus the Evaporust treatment. The results were worth it, as I am still running that engine after 6 years of service. They way things are, that engine will outlast me, so I think it was the right decision.

This makes sense. Could you run a solution like the OP mentioned through an engine without tearing it down? Would it harm anything?
 
I'm waiting for my flight back home,so I'll try to add some random info and answer some questions. In no particular order. The parts need to be de-greased before placing the tank. This is a chemical reaction, it's important to NOT contaminate the solution. The solution is 6.5 on the PH scale (very mildly acidic) ,white vinegar is 2.5 on the PH scale (very acidic). This is the first time that I have tired this process and I'm very pleased with it. This particular block had been hot tanked and baked years ago(15+ yrs) and sat in my garage. When I took the block out of the solution after 36 hours, it was dis-colored with rust, I cleaned it with my pressure washer only(no scrubbing). The images reflect the results, I did spray WD-40 on the parts to prevent flash rusting. More later. . .
Tom
 
This makes sense. Could you run a solution like the OP mentioned through an engine without tearing it down? Would it harm anything?

I had the engine on my test stand, so I could do it under controlled conditions. The engine was complete and running when I started. The first thing I did was a conventional flush to the engine. I then filled it with the Rust-911 solution, got the engine up to temperature and ran it for 20 or 30 minutes. I then let it sit overnight and came back and flushed it with running water until it ran clear. I repeated this procedure 3 times. I don't see why you couldn't do it with a running, driving car with some care. In the six years I have been running it, it has never overheated. The closest it gets is when I run at 70-80 on the interstate for any period of time and the temperature starts to creep up. Discretion being the better part of valor, I then take my foot off the accelerator.

To answer a question not asked of me, I would run the flushing solution without diluting it. Maybe you could cut it 10% to take advantage of the manufacturers "safety factor", but why take the chance? Any further dilution would be deleterious and false economy.
 
To follow - up on my rust removal post, for every 12 gallons of DISTILLED water add 5lbs. of tetrasodiumEDTA, stir, agitate until all solids are dissolved, to that solution add enough citric acid to bring the solution to 6.5 PH. Add a small amount of surfactant (a few drops of dish washing detergent). Completely submerge your paint, grease, oil FREE items
in the container. After a day or two, remove and wash (I used a pressure washer) to expose a rust free surface.
This chemical process is called "chelation", it is not an acid, it will not corrode your parts. My girlfriend (a nurse) tells me that chelation is used to detoxify patients with lead poisoning.
Let's try and keep this thread on topic, it's about rust removal using "chelation".
Tom
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Thanks for the follow up.

Interesting that you noted parts need to be paint, grease and oil free, so you can't throw in a typical dirty block after a tear down? A block, per say, would need to be cleaned first before this process?
 
To be clear, this is a chemical reaction, and introducing foreign substances will diminish the intended results.
I should add, the block that I treated had been hot tanked and baked several years(15 yrs.) and sat in my garage and rusted. After removing the block from the tank I pressure washed everything and the amount of debris that came out of the water jackets was incredible.
Tom
 
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"I should add, the block that I treated had been hot tanked and baked several years(15 yrs.)"

Your block sat in a hot tank or oven and baked 15 years???

The devil made me ask that. Sorry.
 
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