Rust removal CRC's Evapo-Rust

D

decling

Senior Member
I found a great product that I want to share. If this has been discussed before, sorry. I know some of you may have found a better product, but I found this one to be simple and easy to use.



I really don't like having a sand blasting cabinet as it takes up a lot of room in the shop and anything big I usually pay someone to do. So I need a way to get rust off smaller parts. I found CRC's Evapo-Rust and decided to give it a try. I have been really impressed with the job it does.



I purchased this window regulator for my 38 truck and it had more that a little surface rust on it. I have the 5 gallon bucket of Evapo-Rust I got from Summit Racing and put it in and left over night. I have used this on other parts that had paint on them and it didn't take off the paint unless there was rust underneath. As you can see in the photos it does a really good job of removing the surface rust.

I have used it on parts with a lot worse rust. It does remove the rust, but cannot fix the pitting as you would imagine.

When you remove just run the parts under water to rinse off. I also purchased the Evapo-Rust Rust Block that I spray on after I have dried the parts. I haven't seen any rust form in the couple of months that the parts have been completed with no paint or primer.
Hope this helps others.


Thanks
-Dennis
 

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Yes a good product. I use Rust911 concentrate. 1 gallon makes 16 gallons $79.99 free shipping. I almost always have something soaking often a block in large garbage bin.
 
Here are the final results on the other end.
 

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The active and working ingredient in most of the rust removal formulas is phosphoric acid. Unlike hydrochloric acid which dissolves rust (ferric oxide) is also dissolves steel (iron) and everything goes into solution. Phosphoric acid (10% solution) converts ferric oxide to iron phosphate which does not dissolve. It will also convert iron to iron phosphate but at a very slow rate as compared to the conversion rate of ferric oxide so phosphoric acid in dilute solutions will not strip away the good metal. Iron phosphate has good rust preventive properties. A simple hot water rinse will stop the process.

The conversion is temperature sensitive and is works best when the temperature of the solution and part to be converted is over 85 degrees F. Much less than that, nothing happens. Raise the temperature to 150F for faster conversion. In old-time movies you can see fenders and other parts dipped in a steaming hot solution of dilute phosphoric acid (after proper cleaning and removal of grease and oil) and then a hot water rise bath to stop the process and flash dry. It should leave a silver finish and flash dry if everything is hot enough.
 
Evaporust is not an acid, but works by a process called chelation. It is much safer to use than any of the acids (molasses, citric, phosphoric, etc.).

I use both Evaporust and Rust-911. I find that Evaporust works better, but Rust-911 is cheaper. Perhaps I am mixing the Rust-911 incorrectly since it is a concentrate,
 
tubman said:
Evaporust is not an acid, but works by a process called chelation. It is much safer to use than any of the acids (molasses, citric, phosphoric, etc.).

I use both Evaporust and Rust-911. I find that Evaporust works better, but Rust-911 is cheaper. Perhaps I am mixing the Rust-911 incorrectly since it is a concentrate,
Click to expand...

Rust 911 can be mixed to be more concentrated than Evaporust so it works faster BTW.

Rust 911 is $80 for 16 gallons($5 per gallon) vs $30 per gallon for Evaporust.
I've bought many gallons of Rust 911.
 
Thermocure is the cooling system flush version of Evaporust. I highly recommend it. I cleaned A LOT of junk out of my cooling system that I thought was clean. I could tell a noticeable difference in the weight of the gallon bottles of coolant I drained using Thermocure vs. the weight of coolant with no flush. It was as black as charcoal. I wish I'd used it before trying to remove my head studs; it might have gone a lot better.
 
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