Rust-oleum for frame

Has anyone ever used "Japan Drier" in enamel paints like Rust-Oleum?
It is supposed to make them dry quicker and harder.

Tractor Supply sells an isocyanate-based hardener for their enamel paints, but it is sort of pricey (and probably toxic).

Doug
 
Tractor supply changed paints a year or so ago. It's pretty good. Have seen a few tractors painted with it. I think they changed because this stuff is not as toxic. None of this crap is good for you. That's why you wear a good mask.
 
I've had good luck with Rustoleum. I would use satin-semi gloss black as Mike V mentions above . If you plan to spray the paint,I have had good luck using a universal hardener and thinning with either enamel reducer or mineral spirits. Hardener will add durability to any enamel paint . The last time that I looked at the instructions, Rustoleum recommends using acetone or lacquer thinner at a rate of 5 %, this I believe is for brush application and will be way too thick to spray. I have good luck thinning Rustoleum two to one with either enamel reducer or mineral spirits. thats two parts paint to one part reducer-thinner. If hardener is used I add four ounces of hardener per quart of paint. Of course proper breathing apparatus will be needed before spraying any catalized finish.
 
I sandblasted and straightened my bare frame, metal etched it, brushed on Rustoleum primer, shot the spots I couldn't brush with the same Rustoleum primer in a rattle can, brushed it with Rustoleum Satin Black, and rattle canned the spots I couldn't brush. It looks great!
I'm 64 and it'll last my lifetime. (paint cost less than $50)
 
Rustoleum from 1965 is not todays paint, I am sure it is different.

I did some experimenting and found it looked nice, but took forever to dry hard and my fingernails would leave white marks that would not go away a few weeks after painting. You have to be careful about thickness and primers since cracking is related to paints shrinking at different rates as they age. The oil based paints constantly shrink over time.

Between comments on the board and my experiences you can get a decent frame paint job.

A different option is black epoxy primer from SPI paints (Southern Polyurethane). Reasonable cost and it goes on easy with a gun and dry hard fast. It has a satin finish and is hard. It is not UV stable, but the frame see very little sunlight unless you are one of those guys putting mirrors under your car. It does not shrink with time. The only thing is your can not prep your frame with an acid as that will prevent the epoxy from curing at the metal paint interface if you have any acid left behind on the surface.
Being epoxy paint you do not have any isocyanates so you only have to filter out the solvents from the air you breath and not be as worried about covering your skin.
 
on my first tudor i did the whole frame with rustoleum. no primer just brushed it on, over the years it has held up well. touchups are easy a little dab will dooo ya. nothing wrong with going that route at all. my current resto i powder coated the frame semi which looks much nicer and can still be touched up with a matching paint if needed..
you'll get 100 opinions but to answer your question yes it works and looks fine
 
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On my frame, I used Magnet paints, "Chassis Saver" $110 a gallon. I brushed it on. I'll let you know how it works out. On my fenders and Running Boards I used TSC's Magic Paint, implement Black. You can see them in my profile under "My 30 T.S.". I shot one of them with this paint and found it to be very hard (What do I know?) when I tried to sand the orange peel out. I got the black paint, reducer, and hardener for about $65.
Terry
 
I used chassis saver on my frame as well. I only used a quart, it covered all the frame and running gear. Painted with a brush and it was 38.00 for the quart. I'm very happy with it.

Terry said:
On my frame, I used Magnet paints, "Chassis Saver" $110 a gallon. I brushed it on. I'll let you know how it works out. On my fenders and Running Boards I used TSC's Magic Paint, implement Black. You can see them in my profile under "My 30 T.S.". I shot one of them with this paint and found it to be very hard (What do I know?) when I tried to sand the orange peel out. I got the black paint, reducer, and hardener for about $65.
Terry
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