Rust Converter
- Thread starter tandnhome
- Start date
rollingsculpture
Senior Member
sounds like the same kind of stuff as the spray on/rattlecan you get at the the autozone
seems like a good once over with an orbital sander before application would obtain a smoother surface and still get the rust conversion /protection for the really stubborn stuff
seems like a good once over with an orbital sander before application would obtain a smoother surface and still get the rust conversion /protection for the really stubborn stuff
Doug in NJ
Well-known member
This stuff is a tannic acid based formula. The same basic formula has been available for a long time from many vendors. Here is an explanation of the chemistry:
http://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Converter-FAQs-W48C2.aspx
The one thing I could never figure out is why nobody sold a tannic acid-based convertor without the water-based polymer component. The tannic acid seems to actually work, but then you end up priming the part with something similar to Elmer's Glue...
Doug
http://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Converter-FAQs-W48C2.aspx
The one thing I could never figure out is why nobody sold a tannic acid-based convertor without the water-based polymer component. The tannic acid seems to actually work, but then you end up priming the part with something similar to Elmer's Glue...
Doug
Kurt in NJ
Well-known member
When you say "works really well" does this mean that there are no little rust bumps showing in areas that were pitted a year or more after final paint??
The local autobody shops in my area using rust converter have trouble with the rust coming back after less than 1 year --starting with little bumps in the final paint, and big chunks of paint falling off in 3 years ---I have seen this happen with the cheap and $$$ paint jobs.
So far the only method that has worked for me in the long term (more than 5 years of normal outside parked driving)) with no reoccuring signs of rust or paint failure has been sandblasting,picklex 20, epoxy primer, surfacing primer---etc under the final paint,I would like an easy miracle method other than sandblasting that works in the long term.
The local autobody shops in my area using rust converter have trouble with the rust coming back after less than 1 year --starting with little bumps in the final paint, and big chunks of paint falling off in 3 years ---I have seen this happen with the cheap and $$$ paint jobs.
So far the only method that has worked for me in the long term (more than 5 years of normal outside parked driving)) with no reoccuring signs of rust or paint failure has been sandblasting,picklex 20, epoxy primer, surfacing primer---etc under the final paint,I would like an easy miracle method other than sandblasting that works in the long term.
