Running too warm issues

40cpe

40cpe

Well-known member
I've posted here about my new-to-me '55 Victoria w/rebuilt 272. you have given me help to verify timing chain installation and check the timing marks. The car is running too warm, but not boiling. I had a "DUH" moment and decided to check the thermostat. It was in the housing backward, with the copper pellet facing the radiator. You can see in the picture below how I took it out of the housing. In addition to being installed backward, the pin that holds the cut off valve in alignment was out of place. With the valve cocked slightly open some water could pass, and warm water could get to the pellet. How much it could open with it being cocked like that is anyone's guess. No one around here has a replacement t-stat so I'm going to straighten this one up and give it a try. Wish me luck
 

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40cpe said:
.... No one around here has a replacement t-stat so I'm going to straighten this one up and give it a try. Wish me luck
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I'll bet you can find a new one online thru your favorite auto parts store, probably even delivered straight to your mailbox in just a couple days.
 
I have NAPA and three discount stores near. It must really be an odd size. I can't wait to see if there is an improvement so I've put the pin back in place and tested it on the stove and made a new gasket.
 
Thanks for that link. It didn't come up when I searched it. I'll have to call for availability. The opening looks awfully small, as does the one in my car. I would like to find one with a larger opening.
 
The large opening stats are a Robert Shaw, IIRC. I think the other usage is in a mopar. Try the search function at yblocksforever. Or join and just ask. It's been discussed there several times. My browser doesn't like the search function for some reason.
 
Been doing a little searching, looks like the mopar equivalent is for a 440. Mr Gasket has one, but the ratings aren't good. NAPA part # THM 6 has a wide opening and is 2.5" diameter.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MRD6

I took my thermostat out for a test. Down the road running 60 with the AC on in 90 degree ambient temp I could see about a needle width on the top side of the white line. I pulled back in the shop and the infrared said 188. That is lots better than it was.
 
The search function over there gives a lot of us fits. Seems to depend on what browsers you use. But the "6" stat from napa is the one you're after near as I can tell. Sounds like the problem is solved. If idle overheating becomes an issue, there's smaller pulleys you can use on the wp, but you can cross that bridge if you come to it.
 
Yes - NAPA # 6 (THM6) is a 170 degree wide mouth thermostat

Stant 14177 is the same, also

Mr Gasket 4367 (For a Mopar)
 
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I used a Mopar thermostat, drilled 3 each 3/32 holes in it and blocked the bypass, works great, I also bought a 5 inch water pump pulley which I haven't installed yet. go to Y-Blocksforever.com a lot of useful info there, just went through the same thing.
 
I have a 3-blade fan on it now, and it has had AC added. The temp gauge creeps up between the long normal mark and the hot mark when idling or in stop-go traffic. Looking at Flex-a-lite fan site, there are several option for more blades. I don't need to try them all, what have you guys used that helped at idle/slow speeds.
 
I have always used & had good luck with 6 blade units . On my '57 Fairlane w/312 I also installed a nice aftermarket shroud for extra cooling & safety .
I believe it was fiberglass , and I got it from Southwest Thunderbirds .
I also had a new radiator , and had no cooling problems .
 
40............I am running a different setup so I cant help much but to answer your question I am using a 6 bladed flex fan. No heating problems.
 
Flex-a-lite is local to me, and I've used a lot of their products. Flex fiberglass (old days), stainless, electric, and fan controllers. There's places they're great. Couple things.

1. Some fans move forward, and I've clipped the radiator at high rpms.

2. Some are pretty deep, and by the time you space them out to clear, it's problem number 1.

3. Like any fan, a good shroud is really important. With A/C, this has to include the effect of the condenser and the (normally) electric fan on it. You need to make sure some outside air gets to the radiator, and that the condenser fan airflow doesn't recirc and block fresh air. This is based on my experience with A/C on my 55 bird.

If I were starting over, I'd use a Hayden clutch drive, and a factory fan for an A/C car. Greenbird56 has written the parts numbers up several times over at yblocksforever.

If you can make that work with the fan properly spaced in the shroud, that's the way to go. Get the full force of the fan when needed, and it slips when it isn't. I had one of those clutches fail and seize at 60mph once. I couldn't believe the noise, and the car slowed down like it had hit a snow drift. After I recovered, I realized just how effective they are.
 
Where did you drill the holes?

Johnnydidd said:
I used a Mopar thermostat, drilled 3 each 3/32 holes in it and blocked the bypass, works great, I also bought a 5 inch water pump pulley which I haven't installed yet. go to Y-Blocksforever.com a lot of useful info there, just went through the same thing.
Click to expand...
 
miker98038 said:
If I were starting over, I'd use a Hayden clutch drive, and a factory fan for an A/C car. Greenbird56 has written the parts numbers up several times over at yblocksforever.
Click to expand...

I don't find a search function at the y-block site, no IM available in Greenbird's profile. I have a 2" spacer on the water pump and the fan is pretty close to the radiator so I don't know if there is room for the Hayden drive. I'm going to post over there hoping he will see it and respond.
 
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