Running temperature
- Thread starter spinelll
- Start date
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
After you shut down an engine, the coolant temperature will continue to rise because it is soaking up the residual heat in the engine. Nothing to be concerned about. Only be concerned with the temperature when the engine is running.
Jim/GA
Well-known member
Leo-
Next time, leave the engine running. Open the radiator cap and read the coolant temperature while the coolant is circulating.
When you stop, try to park with the radiator facing into the wind to give you a little cooling beyond what the fan gives you.
The longer you sit and idle like this, the warmer the coolant will get, so you want to do it as soon as you stop, if you want to know what you had when you were driving.
I like a temperature gauge that you can read while you are driving.
I am working on a Bluetooth temp gauge that drops in the upper tank. You read the temp on your phone or smart watch while driving. It is not perfected yet, but getting there. I used it last summer at the MARC meet in Asheville and it worked "ok". My main issue is dropping the BT connection while driving. The electrical RF interference from the model A ignition system is crazy, and this is a very low power (ultra low power) bluetooth source, so not very RF tolerant.
nkaminar
Well-known member
Since the radiator cools the coolant, the top will always be hotter than the bottom. I measured mine using an IR thermometer gun and it was about 20 degrees difference at idle after a 10 mile trip. Of course the absolute temperatures will depend on how hot the car is running. I have a 160 degree thermostat so my exiting coolant is aways around 160 degrees. I enlarged the hole in the thermostat flange so that I get more flow before it opens. That helps even out the temperature and prevent slugs of hot coolant when the thermostat opens.
Big hammer
Well-known member
I got to 30*F difference between the upper radiator neck to bottom radiator neck , area between the hoses and radiator. The very best conductor of removing heat is ………WATER. Use it H2O and an anti rust additive water pump lubricant ! My A ran 5 -10 * F HOTTER with antifreeze as coolant ! I then installed a Berg’s radiator ( no longer in business) and haven’t even thought about engine coolant temperatures !!
Canton_Model_A's
Senior Member
so BigHammer, should I dump my anti-freeze and just run water here in SE Michigan?
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
Really? Are you suggesting your thermostat 'Controls ' your coolant temperature at 160°F?
Once my thermostat opens at 160°F my coolant temperature usually settles in at ~170-175°F.
Anti-Freeze also raises the coolant boiling point. I believe a warmer running engine is a benefit as it helps vaporize the "Bad Stuff" from your crankcase. Water, unburned gas and acids from the combustion process.
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nkaminar
Well-known member
Blockhead,
The temperature is around 160. It is hard to read the thermometer when driving. Also, since I enlarged the hole in the flange for the thermostat, there is more coolant flowing all the time, even with the thermostat closed.
Before I enlarged the hole the thermostat would remain closed until the temperature was quite hot then open and send a slug of hot coolant to the radiator. Then it would close again. This cycle would repeat. One advantage of the larger hole in the flange is that the thermostat senses the coolant temperature more accurately.
My thermostat is mounted low in the outflow hose. I run it summer and winter.
The temperature is around 160. It is hard to read the thermometer when driving. Also, since I enlarged the hole in the flange for the thermostat, there is more coolant flowing all the time, even with the thermostat closed.
Before I enlarged the hole the thermostat would remain closed until the temperature was quite hot then open and send a slug of hot coolant to the radiator. Then it would close again. This cycle would repeat. One advantage of the larger hole in the flange is that the thermostat senses the coolant temperature more accurately.
My thermostat is mounted low in the outflow hose. I run it summer and winter.
Big hammer
Well-known member
Water only ? NO it will cause rust which equals running hotter ! Water and antirust/ pump lubricant YES if you’re running hot ! Antifreeze adds that say boil over protection to 235* or more ? Is for a sealed pressurized coolant system ! Yep I don’t like antifreeze ! I don’t like working in it ! It stinks and tastes bad ! But I do use it in my now cool running A ! When I picked up my Berg’s radiator he stated that most find his radiators cool too much ! It did so I installed a 160* thermostat and with antifreeze as coolant, on 90+* day the temperature after a long 1 hour + drive , idling it’s about 185*F
BButturff
Senior Member
I run a 50/50 mix of old fashioned green antifreeze here in SE MN. But I don't run straight water (yes it's cooler and you can put in an anti-rust additive) because, 1. I like to get my A out on the really nice winter days and, 2. You only get one chance to forget to drain the water when the temperature gets below freezing and you'll be looking at some very major repairs. Happened to me once to a Chevy 250 and it cost me a replacement block, boring, honing, gaskets etc and those blocks have freeze plugs, the Model A block does not.
JRrev
Well-known member
I run distilled water and anti-rust additive but drop it in November. I read where water without anti-freeze could run 30 degrees cooler. Mine runs too cool so I'm using a 180 degree thermostat primarily to avoid oil sludge. I have run into numerous people who "think" their Model A is overheating because they see coolant spitting out from the radiator cap. Most of the time it's just a cap gasket not sealing as it should.
chili.canida
Junior Member
What are you running
stevemclark
Senior Member
Do you have a thermostat ? Mine is 180* where it stays ,I have a heavy duty Brassworks Radiator pressurized to 4lbs,cost was about $1000 with shipping but it does not get hot anymore. The stock one did not leak but did not cool either.