Running out old babbit
- Thread starter David R.
- Start date
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Use a thin chisel to get between the main web and the soft metal and then pry it out. Use a screwdriver to assist prying it out if necessary. Then use a drill bit to clean the locking holes of any residual material. Don't overthink this.
J and M Machine
Senior Member
Reading your post this morning, If what you say is true above then you're going to the wrong place.!
You need to take the engine to a machine shop that can do the whole job and understand what a Model A engine is or at least "Know what babbitt looks like"!
rotorwrench
Well-known member
I wouldn't take a job to a shop that hasn't done it before either and especially pouring babbitt bearings. There is too steep a learning curve on this type of work. In other words, it's a lot more complicated than it looks to be. Find a specialist near to you.
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
If the people that work at this shop has never seen or worked with babbit , they probably won't be interested in doing such a job . I would first ask a few questions before I started prying against the babbit . I would think that the person that pours and finishes the new babbit should be the person that removes the old babbit , there could be a risk of messing something up .
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
You know, we are all making the assumption that David is going to have 'babbitt' re-poured in his AA engine. What if his intentions are for this new machine shop to line-bore the mains to accept insert shells? At that point, as long as they can read a micrometer and accurately set the cutter on a boring bar, it probably is a moot point whether the machinist(s) have ever seen babbitt.
So David, I know you said awhile back that your AA engine was awful gunky inside and needed a complete rebuild, but what are your plans with it now??
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So David, I know you said awhile back that your AA engine was awful gunky inside and needed a complete rebuild, but what are your plans with it now??
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George Miller
Well-known member
If they are going to put in inserts why not just bore the babbitt out, it works for me. I would not want the job after some one was messing with it. Ok I do not want it any-way.
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Kohnke Rebabbitting
Well-known member
I would do it myself. Not to just to save money, which you do. No body needs to see it. A 1000 engines will have a different ware pattern, and what ever you find is useless information.
Do not use a Chisel, and drill, unless your under a shade tree.
Either in a motor stand, as we do, or set it on a table, ground, propped up, so the mains are vertical, the first bearing, being the highest. Make sure you take out the Aluminum seal, first.
Start with the No. 1 bearing, and use a torch, with the largest tip on a Oxy-Acetylene, not cutting tip, like you see on You Tube and certainly, not a Rosebud. and start at the top of the bearing.
Wear a face shield never had one pop, but you know, Murphy's Law. Get close to the babbitt, with the inside flame, about a 1/2 inch, to an inch, away, from the babbitt. When you come to the Anchor Holes, it comes out with the main babbitt, 80%, of the time. If it doesn't, move on to the other mains, and then, go back to the anchors that didn't clean, some times, 1 or 2.
Using a torch to remove Babbitt, keeps Chisel marks and damage, Zero, chipped part line from happening.
Using the torch, no chisel marks, no cracks , way less labor, 45 seconds, to a minute. The best thing, it will remove the oil out of the Shells. You can even give a little more, if needed, if it doesn't smoke, it's done.
Herm.
Do not use a Chisel, and drill, unless your under a shade tree.
Either in a motor stand, as we do, or set it on a table, ground, propped up, so the mains are vertical, the first bearing, being the highest. Make sure you take out the Aluminum seal, first.
Start with the No. 1 bearing, and use a torch, with the largest tip on a Oxy-Acetylene, not cutting tip, like you see on You Tube and certainly, not a Rosebud. and start at the top of the bearing.
Wear a face shield never had one pop, but you know, Murphy's Law. Get close to the babbitt, with the inside flame, about a 1/2 inch, to an inch, away, from the babbitt. When you come to the Anchor Holes, it comes out with the main babbitt, 80%, of the time. If it doesn't, move on to the other mains, and then, go back to the anchors that didn't clean, some times, 1 or 2.
Using a torch to remove Babbitt, keeps Chisel marks and damage, Zero, chipped part line from happening.
Using the torch, no chisel marks, no cracks , way less labor, 45 seconds, to a minute. The best thing, it will remove the oil out of the Shells. You can even give a little more, if needed, if it doesn't smoke, it's done.
Herm.