Running board cover

A

Alan O'Connell

Well-known member
Is there a special process to adhere the rubber to the running boards or do you just buy the rubber cover and glue it on with contact cement?
 
Bob Drake can supply the contact cement or advise you. Note:the Running Board top surface must be bare metal & clean. Also any surface defects small dents etc. can show after covered.
 
You don't have a lot of choices with a glue on cover. They were originally molded in place & vulcanized but to get them done that way now is expensive. Drake has some reproductions and Hunley Acuff remolds some of them. There are a few good threads on this board about stripping & prepping running boards for installation of a glue on cover.
 
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If you are going to recover your boards, be fure to fill the low spots, where the braces are attached, with bondo. If you don't, you will have those spots show up after you are done. Does not look good.
 
my 40 runningboards were painted, do i have to strip them to make the cement to stick? will the cement cause the paint to turn loose?? going to glue on this week, any help appreciated.
 
Do a test spot .The chances of lifting the paint is high .epoxy prime after sand blasting ,Or rough up the paint and two K or Epoxy over that ,Filler over on that .Spray the adhesive if possible .
 
You can try putting some adheasive on the paint and see what the result is. Some paints & primers will lift and some will not. Cure state and composition of the paint or primer has a lot to do with it. Baked enamels stay on well but lacquer base doesn't. Cured epoxy primer would likely stay intact but it depends on the composition. Some are better than others.
 
Did mine on the '35....used Permatex ' Right-Stuff '. It applies like silicone, but it is not. It's more of a 'rubberize' material. It gives you lots of time to work...contact cement is a do or die, and if placed incorrectly, you are done. I started with the outer lip, nicely tucked in place, clamped to fit and waited one day. It takes about a day for this ‘Stuff’ to cure. The following day, I did the remainder of the board. The nice part about this product is that it is black and when cured, feels 100% like rubber. Do not apply too much, roll with a wooded roller, it will ooze out of the holes on the metal boards. It’s a win / win situation…..and does it hold….oh yea! I cannot build a car without this product….oh yea, also great for sealing those head studs in the block…..this was confirmed on another post. If your auto parts store does not carry it, they can order for you, after all, it is a ‘Permatex’ standard product. It now comes in a tube, caulking gun style…..not cheap…just super good.
PS...sticks to paint or anything else. Robert
 
I think you would be ok with catalyzed urethane or enamel or epoxy prime. I use PPG DP40lf and if it sits more than 5 or 6 days after spraying, I scuff the surface with a Scotch Brite. I use Pliobond contact cement. It's seems best to have a helper with the contact cement and do 1 board at a time. Start at the outside and work toward the frame side and don't stretch the cover.
 
He is still listed in the Phone book 866-4875. Not sure of the area code his address is listed as wilson Rd Rossville GA but some in that area have a Chattanoga, TN Ph numbers. If so area code would be 423. His number sounds like a Chatt, number.
 
Alan I strongly suggest that you remove the paint from the top sides of the runningboards. The printed instructions clearly advise you to clean the surface to be covereed down to the bare metal. We have installed several sets of Drakes covers with very good success. You might luck out covering them with paint on them, but if the contact cement does not hold, you will have a much worse mess cleaning them all over again. No doubt that Acuff does a show worthy job vulancizing boards if you are building a "Show" worthy car. Good luck, Tom
 
I use trim cement that they use at a trim shop. Spray it on with a paint gun. it is super duty contact cement. Been on my 40 coupe for 25 years.
 
I have a set for my36 that I have cut out bad areas and welded in new metal that needs a little filler to smooth them out,especially where the braces are welded on,.I have used hi build primer to help smooth things out so I can't go back to bare metal. Might try the permatex of I can get a # for it,sounds pretty good and I like the idea of it squishing thru the holes.might work ok
 
Don...Permatex item #33694, and yes, it is actually called the 'Right Stuff'. When doing my boards, I could not understand the contact cement way of installation. After a local 'restoration shop' seen my boards and using the Right Stuff, they were 100% sold. At the same time, you can relax when doing the installation, won't need assistance from others, and take all the time needed for a perfect fit. The Permatex tube mentions that this is an elastomeric rubber material. When working with rubber, use rubber. Also, when I did mine, I filled in the cavities created by the stiffening underbraces by using a good body filler. I then use an industrial grade epoxy primer, this bonds like no other paint, and will not come off the metal or bondo…..scotch brite the now perfectly smooth surface ( yes, must be perfectly straight as the rubber cover will show waves or imperfections ) and install the boards with the Right Stuff. ....Robert
 
I understand that it comes in a tube. How many tubes did it take to do both sides?
John
 
Hi John....1 tube will do both sides with leftover. Spread it thin and evenly, too much will bunch up when rolling with suitable roller. When rolling, some will ooze out the holes in the metal boards ( if you have holes ) and this helps to get rid of the extra. When hardened, it will be just like rubber strings on tires...if too long, they will simply fall off. The boards I did on my '35 required pie cutting on the ends to follow the downward curve. The uneven gaps got filled with the Right Stuff and blended in with the original black rubber. Perfect scenario...work with rubber, use rubber based sealant. Hope this helps...Robert
 
I know the original topic was how to install new covers, but thought you might see what a cheap substitute for running board covers looks like.

This is my 38 Coupe with the substitute covers the previous owner installed many years ago. I did not clean it off for the pictures. This is the material you buy at the hardware store in rolls. I use this to line the bottom of my tool box trays. If you are on a budget and don't care about showing in pure stock, for ~ $20.00, you can get this look. (However, the last picture is my 37 Tudor that still has the original covers from 1937)
 

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I stumbled across the ribbed vinyl in Lowe's earlier today in the carpet/flooring section and had the same thought. Got a new set of Drakes in the box but this stuff looks like it would be ok for a budget solution.
 
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