Run engine with generator disconnected?

T

TitusDH

Junior Member
Hi Barners, as per title!


Does it do any harm? Will the generator catch flames?


For moving around the 1949 F2 restoration project on my property and for some very initial carb and ignition settings I could get away with filling the 8BA block with water.


For some extended test runs after freshen up the engine I will need the radiator and pumps, hence I need the genny to tighten the pump belt. I do neither have a 6V battery nor a harness yet, so could I do possibly harm to the Generator with spinning it totally disconnected? As I had it motoring recently, there will be some magnetism remaining. Could it now generate a field current and without regulator take itself to pieces?


Wilfried from Hamburg
 
It depends on the generator---if it is 3 brush the terminal has to be grounded, the 3 brush powers the field internally, by grounding it there is no voltage made,the later 2 brush with external regulator won't make enough to damage itself if the field is not powered
 
Great, Kurt. The Genny has only 2 brushes. Should have come to my own mind, though.


What I keep telling young folks: In my age I have forgotten far more than you ever learned…..
 
Hallo Wilfried aus HH.
Hier ist Thomas aus LG.
Du kannst die Lima bedenkenlos drehen lassen. Ohne Regelspannung erzeugt sie keine Spannung. Jedenfalls bei den Limas mit 2 Kohlen und separaten Reglern. Und das sollte bei Dir original verbaut sein. Hast Du bei Dir noch alles original Komponenten, inkl. Positiv Ground und 6V?
 
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Hallo Thomas, ja - yes.


Apart from a "minimal 12V System" by the previous owners (half dead 12V battery and a coil) the Truck is a time capsule, all is there and original. Had been sitting in a field in Apache County AZ for 40 years, and came to Germany in 2017
 
I have a brand NOS starter switch. It is for Ford from 1951 and not for my 1940 Deluxe [emoji21]. If you are interested...
9cb3b05eaf60a6efbfba1c700803fffa.jpg


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Since "Thomas911-76" Gesendet von meinem ANE-LX1 mit Tapatalk, the shipping might be a bit much unless you can arrange something. The last condenser I sent to Sweden was $38 for a small "Flat-Rate Box".
 
WABOOM said:
If Titus doesn't want it, I'll buy it. PM me.
Click to expand...
You are right.
I am located in Germany. The shipping costs from USA to Germany are very high. I have payed 40US$ to get it here to Germany. Shipping costs from Germany to the USA is only 20 US$.
The seller did not know the different between the Ford starter switches until 1951 and after 1951. For my 1940 Ford it is the wrong one. [emoji22].
 
Hi Thomas, the starter solenoid looks kinda familiar. It sure is a lot nicer than the modern replacement parts.


So mine was either replaced at one time or the type you show was in duty already in 1949. As mine is in sound condition, I would pass on your kind offer.


Upon recently, I was able to ship pocket watches and Clock parts to the US for even less than 15 Euro. So, shipping from here is not necessarily more expensive than shipping within the US.
 
Thomas911-76 said:
You are right.
I am located in Germany. The shipping costs from USA to Germany are very high. I have payed 40US$ to get it here to Germany. Shipping costs from Germany to the USA is only 20 US$.
The seller did not know the different between the Ford starter switches until 1951 and after 1951. For my 1940 Ford it is the wrong one. [emoji22].
Click to expand...

Your switch with the prefix of 21A is 1942 - not '51. It isn't concourse correct for your '40 but it will fit and function perfectly.
 
Kube said:
Your switch with the prefix of 21A is 1942 - not '51. It isn't concourse correct for your '40 but it will fit and function perfectly.
Click to expand...
Thank you for this information.
But after I have tried this switch and it do not function I took a look to my wiring diagram. At my switch the hot wire (the small connector) has to get minus. (or battery plus if you have a positiv ground system).
The later switch I have bought need plus (or minus - on positiv ground system) at its hot wire.
The inside wiring of this two kinds of switches is different. I measured it. I am an electronics engineer.
 
The key activated solenoid that should be wired as you describe should have a FAB designation...21A should work with a grounding pushbutton...something has been mixed up during the years i think.
If you´re still missing a correct solenoid i probably have one here in Sweden.
 
Thomas911-76 said:
Thank you for this information.
But after I have tried this switch and it do not function I took a look to my wiring diagram. At my switch the hot wire (the small connector) has to get minus. (or battery plus if you have a positiv ground system).
The later switch I have bought need plus (or minus - on positiv ground system) at its hot wire.
The inside wiring of this two kinds of switches is different. I measured it. I am an electronics engineer.
Click to expand...

It sounds as if your system is no longer stock.
 
Kube said:
It sounds as if your system is no longer stock.
Click to expand...
My system is 100 % stock [emoji4].
I have wiring diagrams from 1940 and one from 1949 to 1950. There you can see the different systems. 1940 is ground switched and 1949 gets battery contact from ignition switch.
c9cdccadc28fea2a19fe2a990e3074eb.jpg


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Something is strange here, maybe it is just a language issue. The original Ford starter solenoids use a ground (earth) connection to activate the solenoid. All wiring diagrams should show this. The battery connects to one of the large side terminals, this is the (-) battery post in a positive ground system. The other large side terminal connects to the starter. The smaller center terminal is a ground path. When the starter button is pushed it provides a path to ground that activates the solenoid.
 

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As i wrote...there must be a mixup of what is in that box...21A should be as in Jseery´s picture...what Thomas described is a FAB solenoid...if i got things correct.
 
JSeery said:
Something is strange here, maybe it is just a language issue. The original Ford starter solenoids use a ground (earth) connection to activate the solenoid. All wiring diagrams should show this. The battery connects to one of the large side terminals, this is the (-) battery post in a positive ground system. The other large side terminal connects to the starter. The smaller center terminal is a ground path. When the starter button is pushed it provides a path to ground that activates the solenoid.
Click to expand...
You are right. This is the system in my car.
And it works perfect with my original solenoid.
The NOS I bought is different. It is for the newer systems,switched with battery plus.

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Thanks for the clarification Thomas.

Now the strange part is that part number is for the 37-48 Ford starter solenoid.

Thomas if you have a voltmeter with ohms function have you tried checking for continuity between the large side terminals and the smaller center terminal?
 

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