hello- does anyone have any experience with 3M hand ( not buffer)rubbing compound? i had some paint runs after using Rustoleum spray can high gloss. i took all the good advice i got on forum to razor blade and 2000 grit wet sand and leveled the run but now the area is a dull light gray. will the 3m rubbing compound restore the gloss? i don't think i can get a good result with a spot paint with either paint or cleasr coat. thank you
rubbing compounds
- Thread starter wbs
- Start date
I have used 3M compound and polishing material on my cars. However, I use PPG Concept and DuPont ChromaPriemer single stage auto paint. I don't know how well Rustoleum would work with compounding. I have used the compound and polishing materials with a machine and by hand for smaller areas. In fact, just a few days ago I did a little work with the 3M products on my 29 phaeton. I used 2000 grit sandpaper to sand out some orange peel and then hand compounded (1) the paint. I then use a little polishing material (2) to finish the job. It turned out well. So, I guess what I am saying is - polishing by hand works OK (slow) for auto paints. You could try compounding with Rustoleum, but who knows if it will work well.
Rusty Nelson
Rusty Nelson
thank you-in looking at your pictures-one bottle says 'rubbing compound' the other says 'machine polish'--does rubbing mean that it's for hand use and machine is for electric buffing ? also does the 1st bottles have a coarser grit in it but finer than the 2000 sand paper and the 2nd bottle is finer than the 1st bottle? thank you -
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
3 M hand glaze is a wonderfull product !!! I have used it with good results with acrylic lacquer and urethane or other enamels where a hardener or activator has been used with. Plain enamels like Rustoleum with no hardener or activator may be too soft for good results .. 3 M hand glaze is a very fine polish that can be painted over
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Big hammer
Well-known member
If you color sand your paint you should not have dull paint! Wet sand 600,800,1500,2000
Use some dish washing soap in the water. When done you may have some fine lines like
swirl marks but shiny finish.
Use some dish washing soap in the water. When done you may have some fine lines like
swirl marks but shiny finish.
I have to disagree with Big hammer. The many times I colorsanded my PPG Concept to remove minor flaws and orange peel, the paint turned dull after wet sanding with 2000 grit paper - every time. When the dull finish is "compounded" (machine or by hand) the shine comes back. Using the 3M #2 polishing material makes the finish even shinnier. The first time I colorsanded some paint and the paint turned dull, I thought I had ruined the finish. Not until I buffed the paint with the compound was I relieved that I would not have to repaint.
Rusty Nelson
Rusty Nelson
Big hammer
Well-known member
Ok rusty we will disagree 
! My only color sanding project I to had dull grey finish and I thought want am I doing wrong. I cleaned the finish with Scott's bright pad and used more soapy water, keeping the work area wet(flooded)!
I have not used any compound,the paint is shiny but could use some compound
I will try and post before and after pictures later.
! My only color sanding project I to had dull grey finish and I thought want am I doing wrong. I cleaned the finish with Scott's bright pad and used more soapy water, keeping the work area wet(flooded)!I have not used any compound,the paint is shiny but could use some compound
I will try and post before and after pictures later.
Kevin in NJ
Well-known member
I have found this tool:
3" polisher
to work decent.
Great for small stuff and it allows for some extra control. Hand polishing odd areas is a PIA, I have done it enough. The cost is way less then a large buffer. The foam pads it comes with a pretty crappy. They fall apart after a moderate amount of use. I bought some 3M pads which hold up well.
3" polisher
to work decent.
Great for small stuff and it allows for some extra control. Hand polishing odd areas is a PIA, I have done it enough. The cost is way less then a large buffer. The foam pads it comes with a pretty crappy. They fall apart after a moderate amount of use. I bought some 3M pads which hold up well.
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
3M Imperial hand glaze is the best product that I have ever used to remove swirl marks and it gives a great shine
Mitch//pa
BANNED
Purdy that product is a filler and does not remove swirl marks, it just hides them. 3m does make a decent heavy cut compund but anything that polishes / glazes by 3m has fillers
when done, wipe the panel with isopropyl alcohol mix or a final top inspection menzerna makes a good one and the swirls will return...
if you want to remove swirls use a polish that does not contain fillers to hide them
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Mitch//pa
BANNED
wet sand with 6 and 800 ill pass, i would rather leave some paint on the car
Curt Campbell
Senior Member
I use the dupont compound above with a wool bonnet to remove color sanding scratches. I have tried all brands of finishing compounds and prefer Pinnacle products for removing swirls and final polish and wax. All machine done with regular polisher for compound and different foam pads using porter cable 7425 P dual action polisher using 3 separate pads for smoother and smoother products. 4" pads including pad for wax eventually. Incredible mirror like deep finish with concept or BC/BC. rather pricey products but are worth every dime. Wolfgang is also great polish. See them and free videos at
Www.autogeek.com or .net....can't recall which. Been doing this for 52 years and this is best I have ever used.
Have never had any luck with Rustoleum. It's too soft too long and does not hold up to UV rays. Never polishes like regular car paint nor should you expect it too.
Hope this helps. Price does matter....whether some believe it or not...to get best job. Ask Brent what his materials cost for the fine work he does. I bought a quart can of just Concept....no additives....it was $145.
As usual...it don't personally care what you paint with....tractor supply if you want. I put too much work into making my car look the best I can and simply cannot bring myself to spray it with Rustoleum or implement paint for $25 a gal.
Each to their own.
Www.autogeek.com or .net....can't recall which. Been doing this for 52 years and this is best I have ever used.
Have never had any luck with Rustoleum. It's too soft too long and does not hold up to UV rays. Never polishes like regular car paint nor should you expect it too.
Hope this helps. Price does matter....whether some believe it or not...to get best job. Ask Brent what his materials cost for the fine work he does. I bought a quart can of just Concept....no additives....it was $145.
As usual...it don't personally care what you paint with....tractor supply if you want. I put too much work into making my car look the best I can and simply cannot bring myself to spray it with Rustoleum or implement paint for $25 a gal.
Each to their own.
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
Mitch, maybe I used the wrong termanology . 3M hand glaze doesn't actually cut or remove paint like rubbing compound or fine sandpaper does. I suppose that it does fill swirl marks or other small imperfections. Sometimes the paint may be thin, in such cases a filler glaze is a good thing as it doesn't cut through to the primer. 3M hand glaze isn't a wax and can be painted right over without the need for removal. Taking care of the imperfection was always a main objective. We used it all the time in my body shops whether there was a swirl mark or not. I consider it a wonderful product and used it on my model A's as well. Not tring to be a smartazz but I have never had a need to remove it. It has always held up well and never came off on its own .
Mitch//pa
BANNED
Purdy i agree with that
....
on Lucy, we compounded and polished the car using no fillers under bright lights until the finish was perfect...no fillers needed
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Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
Mitch, I compounded my model A's by hand and used the 3M hand glaze as a finish polish, it leaves a mirror like finish . The way that I paint them it doesn't need much compounding.
pgerhardt
Well-known member
This is not rocket science. But it is science! (Retired science teacher here! ) The angle of reflection equals the angle of incident, That is the light rays leave a surface at the same angle they hit the surface. On a perfectly flat surface that results in a "specular" mirror like reflection. A rough surface presents many different angles to the incoming light rays which results in the reflected rays leaving in all different directions causing a diffuse reflection or hazy to flat finish.
So the whole goal of color sanding and rubbing out is to produce a perfectly flat paint surface. 1000 grit wet sanding removes all roughness except the scratches caused by the 1000 sand paper which is still rough enough to produce a diffuse reflection. 2000 grit wet sanding removes all the 1000 grit scratches leaving only the smaller scratches from the 2000 grit which are small enough to start to look a little shiny. IF you want you can go to 3000 grit paper which doesn't even feel like sand paper and starts to produce a sheen. BTW Yes there is 4000 and 5000 grit sandpaper! I ordered some on Amazon to experiment with when I get to the top sides of my fenders!
Usually after 3000 grit we move to a "cutting" compound to remove the 3000 grit scratches, and then to a "polishing" compound to remove the scratches left behind by the cutting compound. Finally a wax or sealant is applied to protect the finish you worked so hard to obtain. IMPORTANT Wax doesn't produce a shiny finish, but only protects one that has already been obtained. BTW the "Chemical Guys" produce a whole series of finer and finer compounds for this compounding process, but most get by just fine with a two step compounding process.
The only big problem occurs when you run out of paint thickness before you run out of scratches. This is the reason many prefer the base coat/clear coat system. All the sanding/compounding is done on the clear coat leaving the color coat untouched.
How do you know when your done? Take an issue of Hemmings and hold it 8-10 feet from the car. If you can clearly read the "Hemmings" backwards in the reflection congratulations you are there!
Sorry to be so long winded, but once you get the teacher in me going . . . Well, that's what I did for 35 years!
) The angle of reflection equals the angle of incident, That is the light rays leave a surface at the same angle they hit the surface. On a perfectly flat surface that results in a "specular" mirror like reflection. A rough surface presents many different angles to the incoming light rays which results in the reflected rays leaving in all different directions causing a diffuse reflection or hazy to flat finish.So the whole goal of color sanding and rubbing out is to produce a perfectly flat paint surface. 1000 grit wet sanding removes all roughness except the scratches caused by the 1000 sand paper which is still rough enough to produce a diffuse reflection. 2000 grit wet sanding removes all the 1000 grit scratches leaving only the smaller scratches from the 2000 grit which are small enough to start to look a little shiny. IF you want you can go to 3000 grit paper which doesn't even feel like sand paper and starts to produce a sheen. BTW Yes there is 4000 and 5000 grit sandpaper! I ordered some on Amazon to experiment with when I get to the top sides of my fenders!
Usually after 3000 grit we move to a "cutting" compound to remove the 3000 grit scratches, and then to a "polishing" compound to remove the scratches left behind by the cutting compound. Finally a wax or sealant is applied to protect the finish you worked so hard to obtain. IMPORTANT Wax doesn't produce a shiny finish, but only protects one that has already been obtained. BTW the "Chemical Guys" produce a whole series of finer and finer compounds for this compounding process, but most get by just fine with a two step compounding process.
The only big problem occurs when you run out of paint thickness before you run out of scratches. This is the reason many prefer the base coat/clear coat system. All the sanding/compounding is done on the clear coat leaving the color coat untouched.
How do you know when your done? Take an issue of Hemmings and hold it 8-10 feet from the car. If you can clearly read the "Hemmings" backwards in the reflection congratulations you are there!
Sorry to be so long winded, but once you get the teacher in me going . . . Well, that's what I did for 35 years!
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