rough running Model A engine

smorris

New member
Greetings from a first time user of this forum. I have a freshly rebuilt engine for my 1930 Model A coupe that I bought as a barn find for $800 three years ago. I am rebuilding to pure stock except for the Mitchel overdrive that I treated myself to. I can't get it to consistently run smoothly and have tried everything I can think of to solve my problem to no avail.

What I've done: changed head gasket twice; changed manifold gaskets at least twice; flow tested existing Zenith-2 carb jets then purchased a new set of flow tested jets from Dave Renner; checked compression and found no compression in cylinder #2; checked all valve clearances and re-checked compression; with no gain in #2 cylinder I adjusted intake valve in cylinder #2 to approx .016" or more from .013" just to see the results; the compression in #2 came up to 60 psi, (this didn't make sense to me since I adjusted the intake valve and not the exhaust valve); all 4 cylinders are reading 60 psi plus or minus 4 psi.

What it's doing: starts easy; when cold it runs pretty smooth initially, then as it warms up it starts back-firing regardless of my spark adjustment position. Adjusting the GAV has some affect, but doesn't smooth things out.

Other interesting notes: I checked the vacuum through the intake manifold port used for the windshield wiper motor. The gauge was all over the place and truly unreadable. I pulled the vacuum gage from the manifold hole and the engine increased rpm's noticeably and ran much smoother. This didn't make any sense to me either. If I plugged that hole with my finger the engine wanted to run rough and die. Eventually the engine backfired through that hole to the point where I shut it down. My brain says there shouldn't be any positive pressure escaping the manifold hole for the wiper motor, it should be sucking, not blowing. I've scratched my head until I have bald spots in my hair, and tried everything I can think of except taking up cigarettes. Is smoking still considered harmful to ones health??

Any ideas from you experienced guys or gals in the crowd? I'm all ears.

Steve Morris
Roseville, Ca.
 
Maybe a sluggish valve. That was the problem on my 31 with the same presentation. Might try sucking Marvel Mystery Oil directly through the carb intake at elevated RPM. That should immediately lube the valve guides and eliminate any sticking. Many folks add 4 oz. of MMO to a full tank of gas. I do that too and have had a much smoother running engine. Let us know if you get it fixed. Good Luck.
Florida Panhandle
 
x2 on a sticking valve. I had similar problems, less the backfiring. It was an exhaust valve with no clearance that caused my problem but yours sounds like a sticking valve because of the compression going from zero to correct. Try fogging it through the intake with MMO as previously mentioned.
 
X3 on sticking valve. I am a little bit confused about why it would get worse when the engine warms up. Could there be a reduction of oil flow, perhaps due to a clogged oil pump screen? Could it be that the engine was built with the valves too tight in the guides? What else could be the cause?
 
All the above is correct.
Check the oil, does it smell like gas? If so then change it and put in a oil with Zinc in it.
This will he'll lubrication of the valves.
Warm the engine up then let it cool for 24 hours, do this at least twice. Drive the car a few miles.
If all is well, then retorque the head and enjoy.
 
I highly recommend doing an in depth valve check. This recommendation is based on recent personal experience. Your problem could be connected with the clearance between the valve stem and the valve guide. I recently installed a complete valve set kit purchased from Snyders. The kit included valves, one piece guides, adjusters, and springs. Without going through great detail explaining my agonizing experience leading up to a resolution I will briefly summarize what I found.
Initially, the valve kit was completely assembled in the engine along with setting the valve lash to .011" intake and .013" exhaust. A compession test for all 4 cylinders indicated 0psi compression. The valve lash process was repeated and the compression results remained the same. After close examination of the the guides and the valves it was determined that upper portion of the valve stem closest to the mushroom had a section with a different diameter than the lower section of the stem. After comparing the stem OD near the mushroom with the primary stem diameter it inidicated a .003"- .004" difference. This difference was removed by machining in a lathe. The assembly process, setting the valve lash, doing a compression test were repeated with all 4 cylinders indicating a 65psi cold. Apparently the small step in the stem diameter was enough to prevent the valves from completely closing.
I hope my experience will help solve your problem.
 
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