Rough Day

Tak28Tudor

Tak28Tudor

Junior Member
While having a new radiator made, I decide to clean up the motor and repaint a few parts. I pulled the exhaust manifold off, clean and repainted,etc. I then reinstalled the exhaust manifold. I reinstalled the exhaust manifold with new gasket. While torquing the nuts to the manifold studs, I torque each nut evenly up to 30 ft pounds, then 35, then 40. I was going to stop at 40 but said, “no I’ll follow the Red Book” and torque each to 45 foot pounds. I then torque the 1st nut, 2nd nut, 3rd nut....then I as I torque the 4th nut from 40 to 45, I hear a metallic “snap”. I broke the 4th stud. I almost cried and then immediately cracked a beer.

Anyone ever been in this pickle? Help!

Thanks,
Brent
 
Not too bad, just a stud... I was holding my breath ... waiting for "cracked off the manifold ear" that's bad

Joe B
 
Just use a “bolt extractor” and replace? I have this fear that the stud in the engine won’t come out and/or a torch is needed. Gulp.
 
That is one of the mistakes in the red book, should be around 25-30.
Another mistake in the pan bolts no way 20 ft lb.
 
Glad it was just a stud.

Drilling and using an extractor can work but if you break the extractor off in the stud then things get very troublesome.

I would suggest that you take the car to someone that can weld a nut onto the stud and back it out that way.

I never use a torque wrench on a manifold. I just snug them up a little at a time until I feel most of the "squish" is out of the gasket. I check them a few times after driving until they settle in.

They don't have to be super tight if your surfaces are reasonably flat and are using a new gasket.

When installing I leave the two bolts holding the intake manifold to the exhaust manifold loose and tighten them last.
 
Tak28Tudor said:
While having a new radiator made, I decide to clean up the motor and repaint a few parts. I pulled the exhaust manifold off, clean and repainted,etc. I then reinstalled the exhaust manifold. I reinstalled the exhaust manifold with new gasket. While torquing the nuts to the manifold studs, I torque each nut evenly up to 30 ft pounds, then 35, then 40. I was going to stop at 40 but said, “no I’ll follow the Red Book” and torque each to 45 foot pounds. I then torque the 1st nut, 2nd nut, 3rd nut....then I as I torque the 4th nut from 40 to 45, I hear a metallic “snap”. I broke the 4th stud. I almost cried and then immediately cracked a beer.

Anyone ever been in this pickle? Help!

Thanks,
Brent
Click to expand...

Brent
Not the end of the world at all. I have snapped a several bolts over the years on different cars and I have always been able to get them out with an extractor tool that you can get at Lowes or stores like that. As for the beer its never a bad idea after an O Sh!& moment. Best to walk away and get a plan together.

Ron
 
Brent, I had the same experience with a cylinder head stud on a newly rebuilt engine. I wanted to paint the cylinder head myself and have the copper gasket exposed. Dumb, I should have let the rebuilder do the job. A friend helped me get the bad stud out of the block. Ed
 
Well, I took the 25 foot/lb. advice. But I put a dab of aluminum never sieze on the studs. Uh oh ... then I remembered the torque page in the red book. A 40+ percent reduction in torque is advised when using anti seize. I stopped tightening. So far so good.
 
Depending on how much stud you have left, I'd use the tool below (about $18) along with some PB blaster, a lite ballpeen hammer
IT may not be as bad as you imagine,
 

Attachments

  • 11943805_teq_tq4556_pri_larg.jpg
    11943805_teq_tq4556_pri_larg.jpg
    20.1 KB · Views: 31
If you need to drill it out at all, use a left hand drill bit, run of course in your drill backwards. Sometimes you can get the bit to bite into the stud and reverse it without further work.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top