Rolling chassis
- Thread starter 31slant
- Start date
Bill G
Well-known member
You might try Mark in Polson, MT. I don't know if he has what you are looking for, but he might be someone to talk to. He does all kinds of Model A work besides just speedometers.
https://www.marksspeedometer.com/contact-us/
https://www.marksspeedometer.com/contact-us/
Jack Shaft
BANNED
I disagree Mike, I'm seeing chassis parts going for a touch over scrap weight, the only way to get any money is a complete chassis..A cat who is patient and does his homework can put together a chassis cheap.
Synchro909
Well-known member
Once again, the difference between here and there is apparent. Here, a bare chassis goes for $1K or more and just try finding an engine to rebuild. Gearboxes, not quite so bad but rear ends not so good. Any brake parts are trash 2 tooth RHD steering boxes are like hen's teeth.
There are plenty here who would love to able to buy a rolling chassis. You have to be lucky.
There are plenty here who would love to able to buy a rolling chassis. You have to be lucky.
a compete chassis on the low end is 1000. and tops out around 2500. saves a lot of time
if you are building a rod, then that is a totally different question........
the HAMB is good as suggested and also CL rodders are always dumping the chassis and just keeping the titles and bodies. therein lies another question......titling the chassis you just bought with the engine you now own. The rodder kept the title.......
wont even get into that.
if you are building a rod, then that is a totally different question........
the HAMB is good as suggested and also CL rodders are always dumping the chassis and just keeping the titles and bodies. therein lies another question......titling the chassis you just bought with the engine you now own. The rodder kept the title.......
wont even get into that.
Synchro909
Well-known member
I've considered that but the tyranny of distance makes it very difficult. How do I know how good it is and how truthful the seller. By the time I get it over here, it aint so cheap any more. We don't have titles for cars so that wouldn't be an issue but it would have to have one to leave the US. I wonder if a seller would trust me to post it back to him.
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Maybe you should answer this question first...
'Is it cheaper to buy a used car or a new car?'
The same mindset applies to purchasing a "used roller" chassis. With a properly restored chassis someone has built themselves, you typically have a rebuilt engine with a warranty, a rebuilt transmission, a rebuilt front & rear axle assembly, brakes that have all parts restored where they function properly, and a frame that has been straightened and all the crossmember rivets tightened. Add to that a fresh coat of paint.
With a used roller chassis, you typically find a chassis that was poorly rebuilt and now the engine is used-up (-and often hemorrhaging oil from the rear main), a transmission that whines in 2nd gear, a rear end that whines of the coast side, brakes that just barely stop, and a frame that is bent or sagging. Since the main thing you are buying is a group of 'core' parts, then these chassis' are fairly priced at $1,000.00.
I think the general consensus is that a restored Model-A that runs well, stops well, steers well, and is not a problematic vehicle is NOT bought as a donor car for a street rod. It is the cars where the engine has issues, the trans & rear end are noisy, the brakes don't stop, etc. are the ones that become donor chassis' for sale when they are dismantled. So if the latter is what you are after, then go for it, but don't be fooled just because someone advertises a "restored chassis" for sale.
Jack Shaft
BANNED
That kind of circles back to the original point.. and raises a few more questions based on you and what you are looking for.
If you have time and skills, piecing together and restoring a chassis is the least expensive option if you plan on building it yourself.
Buying a correctly restored chassis can be expensive if you can find one, and certain items cant be correctly evaluated before purchase. Engines and rear axles to name a few of the things hard to check in a transaction.'Krylon overhauls' are out there. Gathering parts and building your own reduces the surprise factor, nothing more disheartening than finding out that 'restored' engine you bought is junk.
If you have time and skills, piecing together and restoring a chassis is the least expensive option if you plan on building it yourself.
Buying a correctly restored chassis can be expensive if you can find one, and certain items cant be correctly evaluated before purchase. Engines and rear axles to name a few of the things hard to check in a transaction.'Krylon overhauls' are out there. Gathering parts and building your own reduces the surprise factor, nothing more disheartening than finding out that 'restored' engine you bought is junk.
Ak Sourdough
Senior Member
My idea is that a fellow would be way ahead buying a complete rolling chassis in about any condition rather than gathering up a bunch of unrelated junk and piecing one together. A complete chassis will have all the proper hardware, springs and widgets that you would otherwise have to round up from all over the place.
Recently I've seen some of the HAMB guys buying an older restoration with paint and other issues, but still very good cars to make their hot rods. Saves them a lot of hours fixing rust and abuse associated with starting out with a jalopy. Some careful shopping can probably save you a lot of time and money.
Recently I've seen some of the HAMB guys buying an older restoration with paint and other issues, but still very good cars to make their hot rods. Saves them a lot of hours fixing rust and abuse associated with starting out with a jalopy. Some careful shopping can probably save you a lot of time and money.
Bill Cilker
Senior Member
31slant
A slant window body needs to be installed on a late 1930-31 frame with the #2 & 3 body bolt bracket moved back and the special #6 body bolt bracket mounted on the outside of the frame.
A slant window body needs to be installed on a late 1930-31 frame with the #2 & 3 body bolt bracket moved back and the special #6 body bolt bracket mounted on the outside of the frame.
Brendan
Well-known member
look around for one, you can find a complete one with motor and trans, from some BoneHead Street rodder fairly cheep, they come up now and then
Ranchero50
Senior Member
Just join the facebook groups and you'll find a running restored condition chassis from under $4k thanks to the hot rod crowd who by these up for their bodies and try to recoup some money selling the carcass.
Thanks for the tip. Its a four door.
nkaminar
Well-known member
Not to hijack the thread, but I think the same reasoning pertains to buying a car that is restored or one that needs very little work rather than restoring the car yourself. I think it comes down to what you want. Do you want the pleasure of restoring the car or the just the pleasure of owning one and driving it. If you put a dollar amount on your time, you will never sell a restored Model A for what you put into it.