Is it worth the effort to change from 1.43 rocker arms to 1.54s ?? I have a line on a set of the 1.54s and am thinking of putting them on my 256" Merc.. Can I use the original push rods? Thanks : Bruce
If I remember right, Ted Eaton's dyno testing showed a 3 HP increase on a performance 312 engine with 1.54 vs. 1.43 rockers. On a 256, maybe 1-2 HP? If it were me I would change the solid pushrods to tubulars, even with the lower ratio rockers.
X2 on the push rods. If you can pick the rocker arms up cheap enough I would put them on. Most people want an arm & a leg for them and the cost wouldn't justify the results.
Used or worn 1.54 rockers are no longer worth an arm and a leg. New ones are now available, forged like the stocker's. The only downside I could see on the rockers I installed for a costumer were the adjusters. I used the old ones, the new ones were loose in the rocker. He paid $199.00 for 16.
The older 2 piece adjusters work fine. I find them more cumbersome to work with, but they do the job. The one piece adjusters can become worn, in which case they can work out of adjustment, widening gap. Someone said FE one piece adjusters are the same as the Y, but I dont remember that for sure.
Since we are talking rockers. Is it better to go with a "full oil" system by tapping and plugging the end rocker oil tube on a stock engine? Is there other provisions when doing so?
Hope I'm not out of line for asking in this thread.
I used the two piece adjusters. I like to cut the end of the oil overflow tube square on the end, then tap it to 10-24. I then put in a screw with a 1/16 hole through it. That way oil gets to everywhere it needs to be. I have some of those screw drilled and ready to go for those who dont have the capacity to drill them.
Yes, one drop on each screw. The oil needs to get to the timing chain and the distributor drive gear. One side feeds each. Some expect the dripping to do the job, I like to give it a bit more.