rocker arm oiling problems on Y block

I thought the issue was the rocker arms? I guess you have to remove the motor to install that setup, due to the shavings when you drill?

!!! CAUTION - ANOTHER EDIT IN BOLD TYPE !!! ​

The method shown supplies oil directly to the valve-train from the pump (after filtering) with no (little) chance of blockage or (loss of flow volume). It supplies oil directly to the oil passages in the cylinder head, the center cam bearing requiring no groove and will provide better camshaft support.

You would perform it with the engine torn down for the reason you mentioned.
 
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Regarding oil filters, Y blocks had a full flow system, just like today's engines. The oil came from the pump into the filter and then on to the bearings.

The older "optional" filter systems were used on various engines, such as a flathead Mopars, flathead Fords and 216-235 as well as the first 265 Chevrolets. This system basically pumped oil into the filter from an available pressure port and returned it directly to the oil pan. Better than nothing, but in all reality it just dropped the oil pressure. In that time period the oil was terrible as compared to todays oil and the engines had very poor crankcase ventilation. If I were to have been buying a new car back then, I probably would have opted out of the filter and just changed oil more often and tried to stay away from paraffin based oils
 
Back in the day I have installed many outside lines to the rocker arms through a hollow bolt in the valve covers. it's not pretty but back then on high mileage engines it worked. I think there was a kit but I made up my own.
 
... The older "optional" filter systems were used on various engines, ... This system basically pumped oil into the filter from an available pressure port and returned it directly to the oil pan. ...
Some doofus downgraded to one of those bypass style oil filter setups (aftermarket Frantz brand) on the '57 312 in my garage. It had a fender mounted canister with a roll of toilet paper as the filter. :eek:
Bought a nice spin-on adapter to replace it.
 

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The toilet paper filter was actually pretty good at its job, it would filter out finer particles than a regular filter and much cheaper. It was a common JC Whitney item back in the day.
 
The toilet paper filter was actually pretty good at its job, it would filter out finer particles than a regular filter and much cheaper. It was a common JC Whitney item back in the day.
I took it off mostly because they filter only a smaller amount of oil at a time, unlike the stock style full-flow filters that all the oil goes thru all the time

The oil pressure on the engine was too low and I also preferred to go back to more original style hardware. Esp. given the picky folks that will eventually be looking under the hood.

Someone can have this old filter setup for the cost of packing & shipping. ;)
 
Oil pressure - believe it or not, I took the tripple gage cluster out of my ElCamino because I converted the dash over from idiot lights to gages a couple years ago. Now I have the gages hooked up temp, tach, and I have a tube kit (copper) to hook up the oil. What should it be with a fair engine, ad at what RPM? I always heard as long as the light is not coming on it is fine, because Y-blocks are not high pressure engines.
 
My 292 runs at about 40 PSI warm regardless of RPM. It starts cold at 50 PSI and drops to 40 as it warms up. I use a mechanical gauge.
 
- charmin oil filter -​

Now that was good ... :D

Better Than JOHN WAYNE TOILET TISSUE-

ROUGH, TUFF AND DON'T SH!AT OFF NOBODY!
 
The spin on - aluminum? Where did you get it - haven't seen them for sale in quite awhile


Some doofus downgraded to one of those bypass style oil filter setups (aftermarket Frantz brand) on the '57 312 in my garage. It had a fender mounted canister with a roll of toilet paper as the filter. :eek:
Bought a nice spin-on adapter to replace it.
 
Not only mine and I agree that the engineering was not the best.

Malcontent in North Jersey ????


Of course, the above statements are IN YOUR OPINION ONLY, correct?

The photo I showed was being facetious. Still, it is a better method than ENGINEERING came up with back then.

How are things in NORTH JERSEY these days? Seems to be a lot of malcontent.
 
The spin on - aluminum? Where did you get it - haven't seen them for sale in quite awhile
I bought it in July of '19 on ebay. From a fellow who I believe was machining them but quit making them shortly afterward. Here's a link to his ebay store.

It uses a large captive O-ring on the back side to seal against the block.
I got one from him a few years earlier for the 292 in my '55.

https://www.ebay.com/str/mpcustommachine

.
 
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The shop manual says 35-55 psi HOT at 2000 RPM


To verify that, I'd say that pretty much approximates my '54 Y block's pressure readings. At a 500+ rpm idle (hot) the needle is about halfway between 0 and 25 psi...so maybe 12 or 13? At a higher idle (closer to 700) it's more like 18. Using 15w40 oil.



I'm still amazed by the claims that toilet paper filters work decent, though I don't doubt it's true. TP is so easily deteriorated in water so it's weird that oil and oil pressure don't flood the system with lots of fibrous paper particles. I wonder if the high quality premium paper on today's market would be better or worse for an engine than the TP of the 1950's?
 
It's an interesting question, I drove around for years without worrying too much about it. If the OIL light isn't illuminated, must be OK, right? And that's true so far as that goes, but an otherwise good engine can be turned into more or less scrap with loss of oil pressure in just a few seconds.

The pressure specs in the manual are listed for recommended oil viscosities I expect. And from what I've gleaned from reading the material is that a high oil pressure is not necessarily "good" simply for high oil pressure sake. For example if someone were to run 20w-50 and saw 70 psi HOT at idle, that isn't really what we want. The bearing clearances are kind of what's important here, and excessively high oil pressures means the oil pump can go into bypass.

If the engine is in good condition, it should achieve the specified pressure with the factory 10w-30, one of the most important functions of motor oil (other than actual lubrication) is carrying away excess engine heat away from internal engine components that aren't very well served by the engine cooling system. For that, the engine needs good oil flow, and plenty of it. I think sometimes when it comes to motor oil a lot of us try to out think the engineers.
 
I think sometimes when it comes to motor oil a lot of us try to out think the engineers.

That and believing what is written in a 50's OWNERS MANUAL and outdated tech.

DIESEL rated oil come to mind here ... :D
 
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