Roaster windshield //// how remove it ?

Hi,
had somebody removed the windshield from a Roaster ? How can I remove the 2 nuts shown in the photo ?


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Another Question :
Is this butterfly screw the correct to fix the canvas ?


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Many thanks for your replies.
Charlie
 
The second photo butterfly is correct. The problem of removing the incorrect bolts in the first picture can be first soaked in PB Blaster or the like and tried, but I have had to resort to heat on several that I removed. I had the best luck by first removing the top dash strip to reveal the threaded area of the cowl post that holds the screws, and heating in that area. The last resort is to drill them out.
 
Hi guys,
many thanks for your replies.
If the bolt shown are not originals, somebody can post a photo of the correct ones ? Sorry my question , but how exactly are the "slotted screw/bolt" ?
Many thanks in advance.
Charlie
 
Hi.
Your bolts should really be screws. (5/16" UNF countersunk) As the picture. Most parts suppliers have them and they should be body colour. I prefer if possible to get a nut behind the lower screw if possible to help pull the screw in better and for a firmer mount.
Hope this helps.
 

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UNF would have been the thread originally used. SAE thread is exactly the same as UNF and was called SAE before the threads were unified, way back. I think about 1912.
 
Charlie Jeep,

I would just emphasise the point that JTW made. It is very helpful, if you haven't done it already, to remove the dash rail (4 screws and 2 screw bolts with nuts) that runs along the top of the cowl just below the windshield lower rim. You can then look inside the ram's horn and see how the windshield support stanchion plugs onto the upright of the horn and the threads of the 2 securing bolts that you show in your picture should be visible.

My guess is that there will be nice big rusted up nuts on those bolts.

New screws are readily available mail order from the big suppliers - Mac's, Synder's, Bratton's .....

Get their physical catalogues sent to you. You can spend hours pouring over them and seeing all the split pins, washers , nuts, gaskets .... that you need.

Looks like you have a nice long restoration project ahead of you !
 
Hi Richar.
Many thanks for your comment.
Let me see if I can clarify some concepts and words regarding the model A.
The dash rail and the screws bolts that I must remove first, are those shown in the attach photo ?


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Cheers,
Charlie
 
Yes that is the dash rail, those are the screws that hold it on. I am unsure as to how much that will help you, not a lot of extra room behind the dash panel in that area. There are a couple of holes in the corner mounting braces for the dash panel, you may be able to shoot a penatrant into and hit the back of the nuts. Since the fasteners holding the stanchions on are not original and were added some time later, they may not be rusted fast. I would put a large adjustable wrench on them and see if they turn. If they break off you can remove the windshield and stanchion then remove the remaining bolt pieces. Interesting divided windshield, must have had two with good opposite ends.......
 
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Charlie,
Your photo above shows a hex nut on the upper part of the windshield. That should be a nickel-plated wing nut. They are available from parts suppliers, at least in the US.

Also, what you have (in English) is a ROADSTER pickup, not a roaster. A roaster is what we cook chickens in. But that's OK; I don't speak ANY Spanish! :)
 
Hi Amigos !!!!!!!!!
Yes you are right !!!! I have a Roadster not a ROASTER jajajajajajajajajajajaja !!!! Very good point, sorry very much for the mistake.
Many thanks for your information regarding the dash rail, and how remove the windshield.
Another question : The triangular parts on the side of the windshield are the stanchions ? Cheers, Charlie
 
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