Roadster/Phaeton Body Sockets

A

AYooperA

Senior Member
I have been considering removing side curtain sockets prior to final body and paint.
Should this be done for a proper result?
How to remove them?
Are the reproduction sockets of good quality?
 

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You'll probably destroy or distort them when trying to pry them out of their holes. I never had any luck with a successful re-installation. Either carefully mask around them and then paint the body moldings or pry out the old ones and plan on buying all new sockets, which are not cheap. If your car is a driver, go the masking tape route and save a bundle.
Marshall
 
By the way, if you decide to mask the side curtain sockets and then paint, that would be a good time to clean off old paint on the sockets and shine them up. You won't have to worry about damaging the surrounding paint because you are going sand over that area and repaint it anyway. Those sockets really do make a roadster or phaeton look better in my opinion. I don't understand why some people fill in the holes and then paint over the area. The shiny side curtain sockets do dress up those body moldings and give the car a little extra pizzazz, highlighting the contrast between upper and lower body colors.
Marshall
 
Hello, Snyders did carry them, that’s where mine came from, also they are part of the car to hold on side curtains, I have seen them filled in on cars also , apparently they don’t drive in rain or less than perfect weather. But to them it looks cool.
 
Take them out. It's the only way to do it. They just pull out. You'll most likely have to buy new ones when you go back together.
 
Be sure to make sure you purchase the sockets made by A&L Parts Specialties. I believe they still make them. They no longer sell to individuals, but supply their parts to the major parts suppliers. I removed the sockets before I painted my phaeton. Be very careful when installing them, as you can "dent" in the sheetmetal.
Rusty Nelson
 
Rusty, I am going to go ahead and remove them and then install those A&L type. 4 of the 16 originals were bad so something had to be done. I just removed those with a large bit to fit in the bore. They came out easy, just thin brittle brass. I will be careful on the install not to damage door. I spent hours dialing in doors for good bit. I don’t know how others do it but I carefully bent hinges to get the alignment. One door took a dozen times on and off. Also welded up strikers and latches and ground so they latch with minimal play.
 
I have the same problem with fitting my doors. I might try to find a body shop that can shim and probably bend the hinges a little to make the doors fit. Being 80, I can't get down and up as well as I used to. Unfortunately I painted and colorsanded the doors before I made sure they fit. The doors and all body parts are original. so the doors should be able to be made to fit OK.
Rusty
 
I would pull them out, it is much easier to sand and buff without them.

And x2 with what Marshall said.
 
I can see going both ways. I will have so much time and money in the final body and paint, it made sense to do this. Having a restoration shop take it to the final step. Just trying to do as much work as I can myself to save dollars. What I found worked for me was to drill out plunger & spring first. Then with a needle nose pliers pull out the cage.
Thanks all for your input.
 
Mike, Thanks for the info. I will be looking to get my top in upholstery from you next year. Maybe I need to order soon if your lead times are long.
My 1920 Touring with your Classtique interior & top. I installed it over 10 years ago … time flies.
 

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Your car looks great! With all of my additional help, my lead times are shorter. I am currently booked out into the end of July.

Mike Francis
Classtique Upholstery
 
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