Roadster door alignment

Automotive Stud

Automotive Stud

Well-known member
On my 31 roadster I am restoring, the door aligns good with the opening, but the lower portion of the passenger door sticks proud of the body. What's the best way to twist the door back into shape?
 
I don't think there is any magic way of manipulating the door into the proper shape. This might sound crude but on mine I just put a 2x4 in the opening on the top and gently pushed on the bottom untill the fit was better. There are lots of diagrams in the archives on how to deal with other fitment issues. Good luck, Frank
 
I have found the cause of this to be the width of the top of the quarter panels where the top of the doors latch. The quarter panel opening "spreads" over the years. I do not have the original width dimension of the opening.. Perhaps it can be found in the archives. Marco may know what it is. Perhaps he will chime in.
 
On a Tudor I attached a diagonal wire cable with a turn-buckle to adjust it ... managed to cure a 1/2 inch discrepancy which had been there for a least 15 years
 
frank mcdaniels said:
I don't think there is any magic way of manipulating the door into the proper shape. This might sound crude but on mine I just put a 2x4 in the opening on the top and gently pushed on the bottom untill the fit was better. There are lots of diagrams in the archives on how to deal with other fitment issues. Good luck, Frank
Click to expand...

That's the exact solution I had in mind actually.
 
I like using ratchet straps for pulling things back into shape! You can pull a click at a time,look and see if your about to break or bend something Beyond repair. A block of wood at the top, and ratchet strap at the bottom. The door will want to spring back, so you will need to allow for that. Good luck
 
As MAG suggests (post #4), it is the body not the door that is causing the problem. It is my understanding it is caused by people pulling on the top rear of the door frame when hoisting themselves into the car over the last 85 years. Slowly tweeking the body so the door hits first at the top.
 
MAG and Y-Blockhead have it right, the below is from Marco's site.

Roadsters usually will have a severe outward gap at the bottom of the doors. The first impression is that the doors are twisted. This is rarely the case unless the doors were run over by a car!!! The rear quarters sag outward at the top with time (and abuse), eventually cracking about 13" behind the door. A cable, turn buckle, and a couple of home made brackets will allow the top of one side to be pulled towards the floor on the other side to correct. It will require pulling somewhat beyond to take a set in the correct position. If cracks (as mentioned above) are to be repaired, it is a good time to do it with the cable holding the quarter in the correct position. If a severe correction was required, the body may need to be re-shimmed to loosen the gap at the belt-line.
http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/door-2.htm

Bob
 
I agree with MAG, and would not twist a good door to fit the body. I seem to recall Brent posting about this problem a few years ago.
 
On the Brookville body I had it was not possible to twist the door in place without changing the latch vertical alignment because the inner door panel was already brazed in the wrong position , if you are pickey about it being more flush with the rear quarter the door inner panel should be cut away and a new one fitted and brazed in the correct position. (just my observation). Incidently, the left door was fitted perfectly by Brookville
 
Bruce Lancaster said:
http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/door-2.htm
Click to expand...

Hey Bruce,
I've also found this same problem with my old driver '30 roadster. Vince's advice/diagrams are really invaluable in understanding somewhat , how this situation came about. I've just decided to live with what I have and to make the most of it...not being a body/fender guy at all.

Besides the sag from , IMO, weak construction, add in the human abuse when entering/using/leaving the rumble seat area. For example, the two that used to ride in my rumble seat area were huge and couldn't care less that they made the roadster...groan and lean to one side :) ! Decades of rumble seat usage put cracks/bends in the roadster body for sure.
 
I third what Mag said. On my 27 roadster I had the same problem. Top of body needs to be pulled in slightly. If you try to bend or push or tweak on the door you might get that oil can feel. :confused: And you might hear it trying to pop. :eek: Just my 3 1/2 cents.
 
I understand the correctness of the comments-----there simply is not very much firm structure to the quarter panel at the door post. I'll bet wood-bodied roadsters of competing cars did not share this malaise.

but after pulling the body shell back into place, what keeps it from spreading apart again?
 
I had to correct both doors on my new Brookville body. I had to pull with a rachet strap the passenger B pilar in 3/4". I removed the bottom angle bracket and attatched it after panel was pulled in. I also had to pie cut and weld the top of body that Marco talks about cracking-do not know name.

Then the doors had to be fitted. There are 4 or so rivets at the top of the inner door panel. If you drill these out you can pull or push the door to a good fit. use small C clamps to hold panel to door. Drill new holes and use sheet metal screws. Door is now permanently fitted. Car needs to be properlly shimmed before this.

John
 
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A friend fitted his roadster top SO TIGHT, that when he finally got the header popped on the posts, he couldn't open the doors! Don't know HOW he fixed the problem???
Bill W.
 
That's why this forum is great. That solves my door bottom sticking out slightly, the crack under the top snaps, and maybe the squeak on left turns.
Time to pull it back together. Thanks all.
 

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