Rivnut for Rumble Seat Hinge?
- Thread starter rtruax
- Start date
1931 flamingo
Well-known member
Why??
Paul in CT
Paul in CT
I am building a 68A from parts. The deck lid that I have is a trink lid and I need to change it to a rumble lid. This requires changing the hinges. From what I have been told, it is very dificult to hold the nuts inside the deck while attaching the bolts that hold the new hinges. Thus the rivnuts. Rivnuts are a product that I have just recently heard of and have no experience with. If you have a better way, I am all ears.
gweilbaker
Well-known member
It's the modern day equivalent of the d-nut, go for it.
walt jones
Senior Member
rtruax,
How to Restore Your Model A volume 3 pages 18 & 19 discuss how to make a Hinge Braket Baking Plate. In the article captive nuts are brazed to the plate. I used Rivnuts instead. I drilled holes for them expanded them and brazed them in as well. I felt that the baking plate would give the hinge to lid joint more strength than just mounting the Rivnuts in the Rummble Lid alone. I brazed the Rivnuts to eliminate any tendency for turning do to loose installation. Good luck with your project
How to Restore Your Model A volume 3 pages 18 & 19 discuss how to make a Hinge Braket Baking Plate. In the article captive nuts are brazed to the plate. I used Rivnuts instead. I drilled holes for them expanded them and brazed them in as well. I felt that the baking plate would give the hinge to lid joint more strength than just mounting the Rivnuts in the Rummble Lid alone. I brazed the Rivnuts to eliminate any tendency for turning do to loose installation. Good luck with your project
eystein
Well-known member
I just did the same conversion for my 1930 Cabriolet. I feel that the backing plate is needed to get the required strength for the hinge attachment.
There are mixed opinions on whether the lids were originally strengthened where the hinges attached, but I think that they were.
I have not had the chance to take apart an original rumble lid, but. When converting, I drilled out the D- nuts for where the bracket that support the trunk lid in the open position attached. The metal was definately thicker and strengthened at that point. So that makes me belive that the lids were strengthened internally.
By the way, to be original, you should remove the D-nuts and weld shut the holes drilled for the trunk lid attachments/ supports in the lid. Photos that I have seen of restored Cabriolets seem to suggest that the mounting holes for the trunk position in the rain gutter should be left in place.
There are mixed opinions on whether the lids were originally strengthened where the hinges attached, but I think that they were.
I have not had the chance to take apart an original rumble lid, but. When converting, I drilled out the D- nuts for where the bracket that support the trunk lid in the open position attached. The metal was definately thicker and strengthened at that point. So that makes me belive that the lids were strengthened internally.
By the way, to be original, you should remove the D-nuts and weld shut the holes drilled for the trunk lid attachments/ supports in the lid. Photos that I have seen of restored Cabriolets seem to suggest that the mounting holes for the trunk position in the rain gutter should be left in place.
tmiller6
Senior Member
I would not use a riv-nut on a rumble lid. There is insufficient bearing area to support the load from the passengers' backs. I have removed riv-nuts from junk yard car doors by pulling on mirrors and distorting the metal enough for the mirror to come off without ruining its die cast bracket.
John Stone
Well-known member
Glad I just found out I should not use riv-nuts to hold the rumble seat hinges. Been in my roadster since 1988. Only have 50,000 miles on it. Probably not going to change them.
eystein
Well-known member
Here are some photos of the backing plates that I made for my Cabriolet. I threaded (no 12) pieces of iron and welded them on the backing plate
You assemble plate, bolts and nuts to the hinge, and bolt it all together. This will locate the nuts perfectly with respect to the countersunk in the hinges, while you weld it up. By the way, you should also put spacers of sheet metal of the same thickness as the lid panel between the backing plate and hinge while you are welding it up. If you do not simulate the thickness of the lid in this way it will end up wrong.
Also, just came to my mind -another argument for using the backing plate is that you can drill the holes in the lid inner panel slightly oversize, and thus have an additional possibility of adjustment when you mount the lid to the car.
Finally, you should be aware of the differences between original and repro hinges. There are several threads on that subject here, so do a search.
You assemble plate, bolts and nuts to the hinge, and bolt it all together. This will locate the nuts perfectly with respect to the countersunk in the hinges, while you weld it up. By the way, you should also put spacers of sheet metal of the same thickness as the lid panel between the backing plate and hinge while you are welding it up. If you do not simulate the thickness of the lid in this way it will end up wrong.
Also, just came to my mind -another argument for using the backing plate is that you can drill the holes in the lid inner panel slightly oversize, and thus have an additional possibility of adjustment when you mount the lid to the car.
Finally, you should be aware of the differences between original and repro hinges. There are several threads on that subject here, so do a search.
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Kevin in NJ
Well-known member
Some advice.
First off if you have an original lid then ONLY use original hinges. The repros do not fit in well. In fact, originals on an original lid practically set in the exact correct spot. Try it, the hinge just wants to be in one place. I had a darn near perfect original 28-29 lid and was amazed with how well the original hinges fit the spot. The repros SUCK!
What ever the method of attachment, the hinge saddles must lay against the sheet metal. I know some of the rivnuts I have seen were not alway flush. Personally I believe your best choice is a plate with nuts pre-attached and slid up behind.
If you have not been to my website you might what to go see my section on rumble lids.
First off if you have an original lid then ONLY use original hinges. The repros do not fit in well. In fact, originals on an original lid practically set in the exact correct spot. Try it, the hinge just wants to be in one place. I had a darn near perfect original 28-29 lid and was amazed with how well the original hinges fit the spot. The repros SUCK!
What ever the method of attachment, the hinge saddles must lay against the sheet metal. I know some of the rivnuts I have seen were not alway flush. Personally I believe your best choice is a plate with nuts pre-attached and slid up behind.
If you have not been to my website you might what to go see my section on rumble lids.
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
I used 1/4 X 20 riv nuts on the rumble conversion on the coupe in 1994 and have had no problems at all with it.
Bill in SoCal
Senior Member
If you have an original trunk lid with hardware, you might be able to make an even trade for an original rumble lid with hardware. Could save you a lot of time and fitting. Bill
700rpm
Well-known member
Where are you located? I want to change out my '29 54A rumble for a trunk. Maybe we can make a deal.