Riveted universal joint worth keeping?

Sparky

Sparky

Well-known member
I was given this original riveted u-joint. It’s rust-free and the splines look good, but there is about .010” - .015” side play in a couple of the pins. OK or junk?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3447.jpg
    IMG_3447.jpg
    41.5 KB · Views: 23
Side play isn't as fatal as worn egg-shaped.

Try turning it between input and output holding in your hands. It's a kind of a judgement call (you're evaluating angular displacement) but if its reasonably tight you could probably use it.

U-joints are not that difficult to change - just disconnect the rear axle and roll the axle back until it hits the underside of your fenders.

There is enough space to pull off the old and put on the new.

Joe K
 
Yeah I meant that the play was due to slightly egg-shaped bores, but when I clamp one end in a vise and twist the other end it has very little angular play. I’m planning to pull my transmission and when I do I’ll check the condition of my current joint. Maybe it’s worse, who knows?
 
Joe K said:
U-joints are not that difficult to change - just disconnect the rear axle and roll the axle back until it hits the underside of your fenders.

There is enough space to pull off the old and put on the new.

Joe K
Click to expand...

You don’t need to disconnect the brake rods?
 
In my opinion, the original u-joint is a friction bearing type. The modern u-joint is a roller bearing type that in comparison, is much more efficient and more durable. Considering the amount of work to change a u-joint in a Model "A", the modern u-joint is the sensible choice.
 

Attachments

  • Universal Joints 298kb.jpg
    Universal Joints 298kb.jpg
    94.2 KB · Views: 57
Last edited:
The model A driveline is designed to not have much of an angle at the u joint.
The original u joint is designed to do something that modern needle bearing joints are not designed for— the driveshaft is on its own bearings and the original one is designed to adjust for any alignment issues— that is why it has side to side movement
Modern needle bearing joints have to support the driveshaft and don’t allow such movement
 
A joint is one of the places that I would not recommend using a used part.

It takes a little work to make a change.

Do it right the first time and it is done for a really long time.
 
You don’t need to disconnect the brake rods?
Click to expand...
"Disconnect" is a general term. Conceived in brevity for a concise answer.

Nits not included. I'm glad you brought them up. We'll take more like the speedo connection if you have them.

Joe K
 
There's nothing wrong with using an original riveted joint in good condition. The original poster's example is one I'd run without worry.
 
Define "Good Condition" of a riveted Model "A" u-joint. Unless it is new old stock, it is junk in my opinion.
 
Bob Bidonde said:
Define "Good Condition" of a riveted Model "A" u-joint. Unless it is new old stock, it is junk in my opinion.
Click to expand...

From earlier...

Try turning it between input and output holding in your hands. It's a kind of a judgement call (you're evaluating angular displacement) but if its reasonably tight you could probably use it.
Click to expand...
One would have to go to answer the question "does it work?" And be willing to put the work into finding out if it does.

Another attitude, possibly yours, weighs the work required to change it out possibly twice if it doesn't against the price of a new, off the shelf, Spicer type.

Both rationale have merit. One is money short time rich, the other money rich time short.

My wife would go for the latter. "You know you're not going to live forever and you can't take your money with you."

Depends perhaps on where you take your pleasure: is it in the working on it, or the using it?

Joe K
 
It would be nice to be able to measure a new old stock 1 because 10-15 thousands might be as good as they ever were when they were new!!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top