Ring Gear

Geo.T

Member
I am getting ready to replace a ring gear. I have reviewed the archives but still have two questions:
1. Rather than heat the existing ring gear to remove it, could I simply
cut it in two places with an angle grinder?

2. I read an earlier post by Tom Endy on this subject. He has always
been on my "experts" list. He said"

"One other thing I have done is after the gear is mounted four evenly spaced holes are drilled and tapped through the gear to accept a set screw long enough to anchor the gear to the flywheel. The set screws are then installed with Locktight.
I had a starter gear try to "walk" off the flywheel. It came forward to the edge of the mounting flange and jammed the starter. I was able to affect a repair by tapping it back into place through the starter mounting hole a little at a time as I rotated the engine. I then went around the circumference with a sharp punch and tried to distort the metal in front of it every few inches. So far it has held during the last 4,000 miles".
Tom Endy


I had always assumed that the gear butted up to a ridge that determined the correct position but apparently this is not so. When installing how do you determine when it is properly lined up? Seems to me that there is not much time to fool around with this if you are trying to install a hot gear over a frozen flywheel.
Many thanks A'ers
 
When the flywheel was originally machined there was a ridge that was there to prevent ring gear movement.

When it is heated for installation you only heat the inside, not the teeth --usually it will drop on and rattle around till it cools ---do not heat it on the flywheel, that you want to keep cool.

For removal I have drilled a hole or 2 at the narrow spot between teeth, then use a chisel at that spot to split the gear.

Before I had the ring gear stove I would heat up the gear on top of the old gear( after it was removed) then drop it on.
 
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