Ring gear Replacement

A

az58cameo

Junior Member
Hi Gentlemen,

I need to change out the ring gear on my 29 Tudor Sedan as the old one has teeth missing, i have the new ring gear (and new starter), May i ask is it
easier to just go ahead and pull the motor and trans out of the car?
I have all tools to do this,and if i go this route is there any place that would tell me a step by step on doing this? Books,web site,etc,

Appreciate any help in getting the task done, If anyone is near Payson Az,
and wants to help assist, i can have the Coffee and Donuts Ready!
Or Beer! Lol..
Thank you and i really enjoy this Site!
Allen
 
I cant say which is easier either way as the goal is to get the flywheel off the engine.

I haven't done this but I believe you must cut a small slit in the old ring gear (junk anyways) then brass punch it off. Clean all the rust and paint off of where the ring will seat and on its way down till its flush. Remove any burrs or anything the new ring could get hung up on.

Get flywheel as cold as possible (deep freezer) and get ring gear as warm as possible (200*F oven for awhile) take flywheel out of freezer lay on piece of plywood clutch side up.

Wearing thick leather gloves (oven makes things hot after all) take ring gear and it should drop right onto the flywheel. make sure its seated all the way flush to the lip on the flywheel as quickly as possible.

When everything returns to room temp it should thermally get itself stuck there forever.

Now i cant remember if there is an up or down to the way the teeth face - i think there is...

Like i said ive heard of this method but never seen it done nor done myself so wait till others chime in.

Also as you can see do it when the wife isnt home haha Might be able to sub the oven for a charcoal grill if she is home...
 
Hi Allen,
I believe that the concensus is to drop the rear axle instead of the engine.
I think because we have all taken an engine out and very few of us have ever dropped a rear end, hence the reluctance.

Take a moment to think about removing the hood, radiator, fuel supply, exhaust, engine controls, splash pans. Taking great care not to damage the paint. Refitting all that and linning up the hood and getting every thing straight, fuel and water leaks, etc. Again, watch the paint.

Versus, rear brake rods, 4 shackle bolts, 4 spring bolts, drop it on the floor. You dont have to lift it out, find a safe spot. You could actually leave the wheels on, lift the car off the axle and roll the axle back6 inches.

The actual job of dropping the ****** is exactly the same either way, floor boards, torque tube, bell housing.

Good luck and be carefull of the rear spring.
 
You will have to heat the flywheel ring gear "cherry red" and then drop it onto the flywheel
and quickly tap it into place with a brass drift pin and hammer.

I have tried the "freezer/oven method to no avail.

You could also take the flywheel and new gear to a local brake and clutch repair shop and have them do the job for you.

Be sure to install the ring gear with the teeth facing the same way as the old one.

You should mark the position of the flywheel in relation to the crankshaft so you can re-install it in the same position for proper balance.
 
This might sound like a dumb question, but i'm not familiar with metal working.

What is the purpose of the drift pin? Why does it have to be brass? I take it the point is to use a punch to tap the ring gear in to position, but why can't any type of punch be used? Why must it be brass?
 
roblesterjr04 said:
This might sound like a dumb question, but i'm not familiar with metal working.

What is the purpose of the drift pin? Why does it have to be brass? I take it the point is to use a punch to tap the ring gear in to position, but why can't any type of punch be used? Why must it be brass?
Click to expand...

A brass punch or a brass hammer is softer which will help prevent marring of the surface it's hitting
 
Mitch//pa said:
The ring gear will drop on when it reaches the right temp
Click to expand...

Yep, some are a bit tighter than others, and the last one I did was really tight, but as the ring gear turned blue, it tapped into place.

The bevel on the teeth face the rear of the car.
Leather gloves and safety glasses will save your body from pain.:eek:
 
Make sure when you get ready to remove the flywheel you mark its orientation so it goes back the same as it came off.
A pound of dry ice for the flywheel, and heating the new ring gear on the charcoal grill is an alternative.
The Restorer (MAFCA) has a how to article that covers the procedure.
pm me if you can't locate it.
Clean the flywheel contact area real good before you install the replacement.
Bob
 
Yes, and I like to use a center punch to mark the pressure plate to flywheel and the flywheel to crankshaft orientation.

Don't rely on a felt tip pen, because it can rub off.
I used a felt tip to mark the carb bottom on my Honda lawn mower carb when I took it apart the other day. It rubbed off before I got it back together, but it was easy to figure this one out.
 
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Thank you Gentlemen,
I have R/R'd ring gears before and what i am mainly after is getting to the ring gear itself,
The Car is Bone Stock and i would not be scratching any pristine paint, so removing radiator and hood is an option in getting the motor out. Did not know about the rear end removal and going that direction.again tho mainly need direction and sequence
in removing the trans and getting to the flywheel.
Thank you all for your Help, it is GREATLY Appreciated.
Allen
 
This is a good opportunity to replace your clutch pressure plate and disk, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, resurface your flywheel and have the machine shop put your new ring gear on. Brattons carries the best disks and Fort Wayne clutch has the best rebuilt pressure plates and they adjust the fingers to your disk.
 
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X2 RE: #17

The other suppliers discs do not captivate the clutch springs and they can fall out as told by many on this very forum
 
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