Roadster62
Well-known member
I'll drag out my 30-31 Deluxe Top Irons this weekend and take photos for you.
Rich's Roadster
- Thread starter mjw
- Start date
mjw
Senior Member
I am for the time being (probably years) I will be going through them all. Do you use the front brake equalizer floater?
mjw
Senior Member
If it was me with this car and did not come with top iron or a chrome windshield[if it did it's shot i would guess in the corners] then i would do a STANDARD roadster
. Easy to find a good orginial standard windshield and top iron. The repro's on the standard are much better then Deluxe .Plus you would have a rare car in a STANDARD roadster and more head room.
I have what I guess you would call the sides, I will take picts and post them.
I have the chrome windshield, looks good at first glance but the stanchions look like cheap repros, the pegs at the top are cracked/broken and they are rusty inside and appear to be chrome. I also have a set that look like cast aluminum poorly done that are stamped on the inside Deluxe 30 Made in USA, to add to the confusion.
mjw
Senior Member
Thanks.
peters180a/170b
Well-known member
They are Deluxe top irons and yes repro stanchions. A+L Makes the BEST Stanchions. lower and top.To give you a idea : Deluxe iron w/ wood = $840.00 + rear window frame in stainless $155.00 .. Now Standard top $605.00 with wood. Rear frame is not listed in SNYDER'S but if you call LB's they will have a price which will be cheaper since it gets painted Black on steel.Like you said you want to gets it in running shape and send it down the road the cheapest way to go is Standard. A Deluxe windshield frame will run you $370.00 and a standard because again gets painted black on steel $200.00 ... IF and when you order remember to add Stanchion spacers... Good luck with you project
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mjw
Senior Member
Ok it was a nice weekend so I was able to tinker a little in preparation for starting the motor. Everything is OK except for part of the head around one of the studs under the nut is broken on the passenger side. It has a washer on it so it may have been welded on. It ran this way last fall and I do have access to several heads if it leaks.
I put on the upper stanchions and the windshield, there is a gap at the bottom of the windshield of about an inch so I think I am missing a piece, the windshield is cracked so I am going to have that replaced, it is safety glass but I think it was put in the frame without rubber, and it still has the registration sticker from 1970.
The rear fenders are repros and look like crap mounted , do not line up with the driver side running board splash apron (I still can't find the passenger side apron and running board) and the hood top is mis aligned so tweaking is definitely in order before I put on the sides.
I ordered a bunch of small parts such as wiring and missing screws nuts bolts wiring harnesses.
I really need to find a 30 roadster to look at to see what I am missing.
I put on the upper stanchions and the windshield, there is a gap at the bottom of the windshield of about an inch so I think I am missing a piece, the windshield is cracked so I am going to have that replaced, it is safety glass but I think it was put in the frame without rubber, and it still has the registration sticker from 1970.
The rear fenders are repros and look like crap mounted , do not line up with the driver side running board splash apron (I still can't find the passenger side apron and running board) and the hood top is mis aligned so tweaking is definitely in order before I put on the sides.
I ordered a bunch of small parts such as wiring and missing screws nuts bolts wiring harnesses.
I really need to find a 30 roadster to look at to see what I am missing.
cradlescyth
Senior Member
roadster 62
quick question. Why a trunk and not a seat?
Just wondering, cause I am looking for a coupe with seat.
quick question. Why a trunk and not a seat?
Just wondering, cause I am looking for a coupe with seat.
Bruce Rossiter
Member
I noticed a part on the picture of the side irons above and they look like a set of brass brackets that I have been trying to identify for about 10 years. Hopefully the picture I post will show up and someone will be able to help verify that these are the same as the part in the picture.
Attachments
mjw
Senior Member
They are the same, mine are steel and rusty, not brass so I am not sure what year they would be from or if they might be reproduction.
Chris in WNC
Well-known member
trunks are very roomy and utilitarian.
rumble seats are useless except for parades and (very) low-speed tooling around in your neighborhood.
JMHO
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joe plumber
Well-known member
Welcome aboard
Bruce Rossiter
Member
mjw
Senior Member
Glad I could help. I had no idea that they were even top irons when I first saw them.
Rich has so much "stuff" for so may cars it is hard to identify. I actually gave the top bows to someone not knowing what they were. I hope there is another set buried in the two sheds left to look through.
Maybe I'll get lucky and find the passenger running board and splash apron too.
Rich has so much "stuff" for so may cars it is hard to identify. I actually gave the top bows to someone not knowing what they were. I hope there is another set buried in the two sheds left to look through.
Maybe I'll get lucky and find the passenger running board and splash apron too.
mjw
Senior Member
Welcome aboard
Thanks
mjw
Senior Member
I put this on the Hamb (I know I know but I have friends there too) but I am sure you guys can really understand the trials below.
Update: Rich's ghost has traveled 190miles to harass me in NJ!
The roadster has been in my driveway under a tarp as I wanted to get it started before putting in storage for the winter where I cannot work on it.
I have been chasing a no spark problem for the last month. First I chased down a bad ignition switch and by passed it with a toggle, still no spark. Replaced the condenser and points still no spark and now I am really pissed, this is like my old VW Beetle, it only has 6 damn wires and 4 of them are for the spark plugs. So I decided to upgrade the dizzy to modern points and condenser and a new coil. STILL no spark and now its getting cold and windy outside I need to get it into storage before it starts snowing. Go back and check all the wiring and find the wire in the conduit to the dizzy broke at the contact end inside.
So now I have spark!! so now onto step two is to check and reset the timing as I also got a new cam and of course the cam position changes when you disassemble it. Man that off set cam tool is a real time saver.
Now I try to fire it up and it runs for about 30 seconds and quits. Oh by the way the carb was leaking from everywhere so I got another gasket set and used Pematex on them and the threads to seal it up, worked except the it still weeps at the throttle but not enough to stop me.
I notice that there is gas leaking from around the spark plugs (they are new plugs and washers) so I tighten them a little more and that slows it down but doesn't stop it completely.
I try to start it again and the pulley for the generator falls off! So I get that back on best I can so I can at least check the water pump while running and crank it over again. Holy crap there is gas and coolant seeping out between the head and the block on every compressing stroke. All the bolts were loose, I tightened them down but the damage was done, it still leaked and the head is really pitted and nasty (not the one I recall working on) so I towed it to my storage garage thats a couple of miles away until spring.
Now here's the kicker I DROVE it two years ago and started it last fall before Rich died. What the hell has been going on? Must be Rich's ghost as he had painted the engine and all the bolts are still painted on.
So I have now moved up the 12V conversion to the spring, The generator is trashed from the pulley being loose and everything needs to be rewired. I also need to either get a new head or find a good stock one. Anybody got either one? The ones I found in Rich's stash are all junk.
Eventually I will get the Holly 94 I have rebuilt and an intake and exhaust to run it but I promised I would run it stock but may cheat a little and get a hi compression head if I cant get a stock one locally cheap.
Oh and I found the missing splash apron and running board, wood seat pan and backrest riser (in another shed yesterday) so know I am back to possibly using the stock seat and back rest as I think I have all the parts to make it work except the wood backrest but I can use plywood in a pinch.
Update: Rich's ghost has traveled 190miles to harass me in NJ!
The roadster has been in my driveway under a tarp as I wanted to get it started before putting in storage for the winter where I cannot work on it.
I have been chasing a no spark problem for the last month. First I chased down a bad ignition switch and by passed it with a toggle, still no spark. Replaced the condenser and points still no spark and now I am really pissed, this is like my old VW Beetle, it only has 6 damn wires and 4 of them are for the spark plugs. So I decided to upgrade the dizzy to modern points and condenser and a new coil. STILL no spark and now its getting cold and windy outside I need to get it into storage before it starts snowing. Go back and check all the wiring and find the wire in the conduit to the dizzy broke at the contact end inside.
So now I have spark!! so now onto step two is to check and reset the timing as I also got a new cam and of course the cam position changes when you disassemble it. Man that off set cam tool is a real time saver.
Now I try to fire it up and it runs for about 30 seconds and quits. Oh by the way the carb was leaking from everywhere so I got another gasket set and used Pematex on them and the threads to seal it up, worked except the it still weeps at the throttle but not enough to stop me.
I notice that there is gas leaking from around the spark plugs (they are new plugs and washers) so I tighten them a little more and that slows it down but doesn't stop it completely.
I try to start it again and the pulley for the generator falls off! So I get that back on best I can so I can at least check the water pump while running and crank it over again. Holy crap there is gas and coolant seeping out between the head and the block on every compressing stroke. All the bolts were loose, I tightened them down but the damage was done, it still leaked and the head is really pitted and nasty (not the one I recall working on) so I towed it to my storage garage thats a couple of miles away until spring.
Now here's the kicker I DROVE it two years ago and started it last fall before Rich died. What the hell has been going on? Must be Rich's ghost as he had painted the engine and all the bolts are still painted on.
So I have now moved up the 12V conversion to the spring, The generator is trashed from the pulley being loose and everything needs to be rewired. I also need to either get a new head or find a good stock one. Anybody got either one? The ones I found in Rich's stash are all junk.
Eventually I will get the Holly 94 I have rebuilt and an intake and exhaust to run it but I promised I would run it stock but may cheat a little and get a hi compression head if I cant get a stock one locally cheap.
Oh and I found the missing splash apron and running board, wood seat pan and backrest riser (in another shed yesterday) so know I am back to possibly using the stock seat and back rest as I think I have all the parts to make it work except the wood backrest but I can use plywood in a pinch.
BRENT in 10-uh-C
Well-known member
Y a w n......... 
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